320iS modifications

My 320iS has undergone several modifications, some of them quite simple. As they can help you improve your car, here are some details:

E36 M3 3.2 (S52) timing chain tensioner
For all early BMW Motorsport engines, BMW used the same tensioner. So these cars all have the same unit fitted:
* E23 745i South Africa (M88)
* E24 M6/M635Csi (M88)
* E26 M1 (M88)
* E28 M5 (M88)
* E30 320iS (S14)
* E30 M3 2.3/2.5 (S14)
* E34 M5 3.6/3.8 (S38)
* E36 M3 3.0 (S50)
Due to a relatively soft spring they really need some internal oil pressure to function right. This means the timing chain is prone to some rattling at cold starts. As the chain gets some free play this can also cause some cogwheel wear.
The S52 tensioner has a stronger spring and has a telescopic design making it more closed. These differences ensure more pre-tension at cold starts and most times takes all rattles away, both at cold starts and at high revs. The BMW part # is 11 31 1 405 081.

Note: if it doesn’t take away the rattles, it is about time to inspect your chain and cogwheels as they can be worn. If you leave that unattended the chain might skip one day whcich can cause a major engine damage.

Throttle cable clip(s)
After stepping on the accelerator fiercely, the throttle cable jacket can pop out of its holder on top of the airbox. With this simple steel clip this can be prevented. It costs close to nothing and is fitted within seconds.
BMW # 35 40 1 165 393. If your car has cruise control you need two.

Suspension
The 320iS basically shares most parts with the euro 320i and 325i rather than the M3, it also has the 4 stud wheels. My 320iS was on OEM BMW/Boge shocks all round when I bought it. Good stuff but I now fitted even better Bilstein Sprints.

The springs were the original Sportfahrwerk units. They lower the car only a little bit, my guess is about 12-15 mm. In this way it looks like the car has standard suspension, but these springs are really good and stiff. I recently fitted Eibachs though, to lower the car a bit more and improve high speed stability.

The front struts are equipped with new top bearings, OEM stuff. The rear stabilizer links didn't look too good and were replaced by new aluminium examples.

The rear shock mounts/bushings: the original ones look a bit thin. The E36 version fits perfectly and is larger and stiffer. Part # 33 52 1 137 972. I recently heard that the E46 convertible mounts also fit and are even stiffer. And you can also fit Group N bushings (part # 33 31 1 417 247) although I've never tested the improvement in stiffness, but they are known to pass on more suspension/road noise.

 

The most recent mods:

I fitted the E30 M3 quick steering rack which was a straight swap)

Pro-Auto solid and eccentric front control arm bushings  (click for enlargement, link to Pro Auto website on 320iS main page), new front sway bar bushings. The new control arm bushes were a tremendous improvement in feel, steering and braking!

Last but not least I fitted the E24 gearbox bushings. Takes quite some ‘stock’  free play out of the driveline (stock bushes are really soft even new) and makes shifting way smoother!

'iS' deep front spoiler
This is an upgrade that doesn't look too aggressive, especially if you paint it black like the original spoiler, like I did. It fits in the same clips and requires no further changes. It improves high speed stability.

Air intake
There are some well known upgrades here, like:
* Evo III lower air filter box, improves air flow towards the original air flow meter
* Sports intake filter (K&N, Green, …): replaces the OEM panel filter. More sporty sound, slightly more mid-range torque, fitted a K&N myself

* Open air intake filter (like K&N 57i), also improves air flow towards the original air flow meter, but is more vulnerable to humidity and dust
* Carbon fibre airbox (as used in Germanys DTM). Produces a beautiful roar from the intake and improves air flow and torque tremendously. But... it also requires a different air flow meter combined with different engine management, like Alpha N. Expensive though! I heard some people are working on a carbon fibre airbox that fits the factory setup, so it uses the regular air flow meter. I’ll keep you posted on that.

Update: currently I am running a stock air filter after stories about K&N letting through more dust. With re-adjustment of the engine, there shouldn’t be much of a difference.

Brakes
Here we also see the parts we know from the Euro 320i/325i. Apart from a rebuild they are stock. The OEM rotors are supplied by Até. At the front I fitted Até Powerdisc rotors. They are the same rotors as OEM equipment, but with oval slots. Current pads are OEM BMW.

There are several E30 big brake kits, but they all require 16” or 17” wheels and I want to stick to the current 15” wheels. I am thinking about steel braided brake hoses though!

Strut braces
I used to have a three-piece single tube front brace, but I recently replaced it by a single piece dual tube example. They seem hard to find but Dutch based Improve Tuning can help you out as they helped me out.

Haven't tried a rear brace yet.

Oil leaks
The oil filter manifold is known to leak some engine oil. The oil thermostat cap is most likely to be the cause. I replaced the cap and its seal, but the oil pressure sender was also leaking. It is the same sender as in most contemporary BMW’s and as far as I know it is a common problem.

Ignition
OEM spark plug cables, rotor and distributor are supplied by Beru-Bremi.
Wear on rotor and distributor is easy to recognise. But as the spark plug cables are fitted in a narrow harness they tend to affect each other inside. Open the housing at least once a year for a check. The cables can be ordered through any Beru-Bremi reseller and come as a complete set, complete with the rubber cap over the ignition coil (even marked with BMW logo) and the wiring harness.
BMW only recommends Bosch 'Super 3' X5DTC spark plugs so there was no doubt for me there. Fit them with a torque wrench at abt 23Nm.

 

Engine bay work – replacing hoses

After the third coolant hose was ripped apart I decided to do something to prevent this from happening in the near future. The original coolant and fuel hoses were still in the car so it was about time to replace them. Since it were the hoses to radiator and thermostat that fell apart I reckoned the engine mounts could have something to do with it as well. I replaced these first, just OEM E30 M3 stuff. In the near future I will replace the gearbox bracket bushings as well, probably by the slightly stiffer E24 6-series examples.

I removed the air filter housing with air flow meter, the air accumulator and the alternator to get some room. After that all coolant and fuel hoses in the engine bay were replaced.

Photos:      In the process  

Thermostat housing rebuild with new switches and hoses  

New OEM fuel hoses fitted (behind them you can clearly see one of the old coolant hoses coming from the cylinder head, marked with build year 87. It was replaced of course)

 

And when in Rome… replaced the intake gaskets as well, followed by throttle body synchronization (both mechanically and vacuum). All that work proved worth while… better idle especially when cold, and more mid-range and top end torque!

 

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