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316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

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petroscf
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:40 am

BertjeConti wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:56 pm
Consider that the temp sensor for the temp gauge is situated in the thermostat housing, and thermo switch(es) for the fan(s) are situated in the bottom of the radiator, so your temp gauge shows hot coolant before entering the radiator, and the thermoswitch reacts on the cooler coolant leaving the radiator.

When the gauge is in the middle, the coolant temp in the thermostat housing is approx 88-90 degrees. So when the gauge is at 3/4, the temp is approx 94 degree, this is equal to your engine temp, but much higher as the temp in the bottom of the radiator.

Hope this explanation helps

I just now took a photo of the thermos switch for the fan, isn't it this? :

ImageIMG_6700 by Petros Tavaniotis, on Flickr

So, on the top not near bottom of the radiator


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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:46 am

So I am now quite happy with the car, after the last visit to the electrician.
I can't understand how all the previous technicians could not find and repair the simplest imho cause for the heater to not work properly-a clogged radiator.
In the past I heard a lot of answers such as "because you have a 71°C thermostat, you should not expect the radiator to work as from the factory" or "I repaired the heater controller and now it should be fine" etc.
Also a couple of other works:
Replaced a control unit inside the dash, (the base that holds the air vent controllers) which was broken and could not be properly mounted (new part from W+N).
Fixed the housing for heater fan which is cracked and was producing squeaky sounds (I am not sure how long this fixing will last, I guess I should be looking for a replacement part but price is ouch)- however, now the car rides like a bmw even on the worst road (before the interior was sounding close to an old taxi with over 1 million km)
Found and fitted an auto switch for the electric aux fan that starts at 86°C instead of 91°C (I will be able to see if this is good at summer I guess-yesterday in the traffic it seemed to be working ok)
And a couple of other things mainly having to do with bulbs on the dash not working

However, it seems I am in need of a new battery. The current one is new, but it seems to be a bit small for the car (which is topped up with rather great deal of electrics and electronic gadgets)

I think that I get some signs similar to the signs I get when a battery is quite old, and should be replaced
Has anyone ever noticed differences in performance and fuel economy due to old battery? Or is this just my idea? I have noticed such issues in the past-and I have written here as well I am pretty sure. (The difference was huge when the old battery was replaced by new fresher battery)
If I notice the same differences after replacing this one, I guess it will be a verification and not just my idea
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:13 pm

After starting the engine the alternator should provide enough current to run on and from that point you should not have anything to do with your battery.
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:57 pm

So you say that a small battery should do the same job as a stronger one?
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:11 pm

On a running engine it will not make a difference. Perhaps your alternator is aging.
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by BertjeConti » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:16 pm

Jeroen statements are correct.

The electric system in a car is the most neglected of all, worse or corroded connections, broken insulation causing corrosion into the wiring. Worse ground connection. Badly connected wires with wrong materials.

All these cause spooky problems from a bulb not working to badly running or stalling engines.

Most car mechanics don't have a clue what they are doing when working on the electric system.

In our classic rallying community electric problems in their classic cars is te number 1 cause for not finnishing.
Image Megasquirted '77 E12 520-6

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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:23 am

Yup, most common indeed! Some more suggestions in the FAQ by the way: http://www.bmwe21.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=13419
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:52 am

Indeed.
However I am pretty sure most of the above (apart from some never replaced wires, probably) are in very good or near perfect condition in my case. Alternator was replaced with new part (it was from a Danish maker not bosch but new iirc)
some 6-7 years ago.
Replaced battery on Saturday afternoon just to be on the safe side.
Both batteries (old one and new one), with car running and with no electrics on or just the radio, were giving 14+ volts indication on the voltmeter, so I guess my alternator is working fine (old on 14.1-14.2, new one 14.3)
With lights turned on I was getting 13.6-13.7 with the old one, and 13.9-14.0 with the new one.
With engine off and key turned to 2nd place (just before starting), voltmeter indication used to be 11.9-12.0 (and sometimes 12.1-12.2) and now it is 12.4 (let's not forget that the new battery is stronger than the other one)
So I guess these are pretty much the same or close figures

I however insist that I feel the car a bit more torquey with the new battery comparing to the old one.
It was not such a big difference as it was last time when this happened again: difference was bigger then, (I remember that feeling pretty well), so probably my old battery back then was almost dead ?
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm

Ideas on suspension?
Seems time is now (as engine adventures seem to be reaching a happy end -well I hope so) for suspension freshen up
Car has Bilstein B6 shocks and Apex 4mm lowering springs. Front arb 22.3 mm (factory I believe) and rear 16mm (retro fitted more than 25 years ago). ARBs on rubber bushes, front and rear arms on recent eurometric polys. Front top mounts recently replaced by "oem", Meyle iirc - from W+N, nothing special but new and fresh and working properly- thinking however of upgrading to some better and adjustable top mounts
However, B6s were fitted on 2004 (meaning 15 years ago) and 67000 km ago, and Apexes fitted on 2000 (19 yrs ago) and 77000 km ago.
Oh forgot to mention that Greek roads are not the best in Europe, so my car's suspension life is not the easiest one
So some freshen up will be needed and I believe that this year is the year.
Opinions on choices, as well as what to take in account (eg small things that should be considered or replaced as well etc) are more than welcome.
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:14 am

Any suggestions -ideas here people?

Still away from final decision, but I am thinking of going as follows:
New rear thicker arb, New eibachs combined with B6 or B8 all around, and possibly new adjustable top mounts to the front.
I think I somewhere have left a couple of rear eurometric top mounts as well, never fitted...
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:07 am

Well I keep in mind your stories about the horrible Greek roads. In my view I would not go beyond Bilstein B6, and I think I would prefer the Eibach springs as they lower a little bit less, and they are somewhat softer.

What do you expect from adjustable top mounts? Nice for track use perhaps, but for regular road use I don't see too many advantages in everyday use. You may want to hang on to your Meyle stuff, at least for as long as they last.

Don't stiffen thing up too much, only leads to more wear on anything else on the car, especially with below average roads.

I hear raving reviews of Koni's new Special Active dampers (successors to FSD), but as of yet there are no plans to start producing these for the E21. Pity, as that would really make an improvement!
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:27 am

Ok, I see your point Jeroen -and B8 you mean you wouldn't go for, not B6 I guess.

My only question on this, is the following: Bilstein claims, as I have read at their official brochures etc., that B8 and B6 are EXACTLY the same (from dampening performance point of view), so no stiffer (as THEY claim), only that B8 are made especially to be combined with lower springs, when B6 are only to be combined with normal height springs. (I read an official electronic brochure where they state this clearly: B6 should not be combined with lower springs, B8 are for lowered car, and their performance is the same as B6-I will try to find this and post it here)

Now I have to admit that I also have combined Apexes (lower than Eibachs) with B6 for more than 15 years now and I had no issues. Given that Eibach are less low than Apex, maybe I should go again for B6...
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:54 am

Well if you're happy with your Apex springs, stick with them!

As for Billies, I did a test but that was over 10 years ago. Back then I compared B6 and B8. B8 tube was slightly shorter but back then it also felt stiffer than the B6 when compressing. Maybe I made a bad comparison, maybe specs have changed over time. For me though, that was the reason to go for the (presumably) softer B6's and I haven't regretted that a single day. The Baur has been on B6's with Eibach springs from the first day I had the car, which is 10 years this year. Still working fine if you ask me. But if there's no difference, get the B8 setup. Or give it some time and pray that Koni comes up with actives. They are in the same price range as Bilsteins.
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by petroscf » Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:23 pm

There possibly exists an option of servicing and revalving my B6s, if I am to stick on B6. There is an official Bilstein service in Athens, where I know they undertake such customizing services
What do you think about this?
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Re: 316 - 1977 - petroscf - Greece

Post by Jeroen » Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:12 pm

Yeah why not?
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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