Hardeman Motorsport - motorsport parts and diff specialist

Hazard warning light switch - howto on p. 2

PHR 614Y
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Post by PHR 614Y » Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:52 pm

£30!? I just bought one from BMW for £6.95, bargain!



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323baur
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Post by 323baur » Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:17 pm

Today, mine was broken, repared as seen on pics - super tip!
(just a little bent is enough!).
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

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jpupster
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Post by jpupster » Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:40 am

Here's a trick. Take small piece of paper fold it 4 or 5 times. With the flasher engaged and blinking, slide the folded paper in the crack around the flasher and push in the flasher, helping the paper into the crack. The paper will act as a wedge and keep the damn thing in the freakin hole. It works, save your money! :D

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--ALPINA--
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Post by --ALPINA-- » Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:26 pm

yeah we know that dude, thanks for reminding us!! :lol: :lol: :lol: but we have good cars that we would rather be it fully functional.. money isnt an issue when it comes to bits like this, well for me it does as i live on the streets .....


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David Mc
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Post by David Mc » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:10 pm

I decided to repair my hazard switch permanently, by remanufacturing the alloy arm that seem to be the source of all failures from a piece of 1.5mm thick stainless steel. I carefully removed the rivet then simply copied the arm shape, creating the locating and contact pins by drilling 1mm dia holes and press fitting some 1.2mm pins into the holes.

The whole job took around 1 hour but now I have a virtually bullet-proof switch. :D

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BillSchroeder
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Post by BillSchroeder » Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:29 am

30 quid? Sounds expensive. Dude you could have fixed it for free!
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Jumper the switch

Post by g323 » Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:33 am

Hazardous Hazard Switch Jump:


Image

Image

See:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=683955[/img]

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jirky
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Post by jirky » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:43 pm

Mine's are broken to, bought a new one :) 15 euro's expinsive litle button if you ask me :)

nismo joe
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Post by nismo joe » Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:57 pm

So the jumper from 2 posts above is a proven Bypass from the switch?

If so, I can modify my brothers car untill the new switch arrives :)

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oldskoolio
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Post by oldskoolio » Tue May 12, 2009 1:04 pm

Fixed mine - had been held in with a matchstick!

Took only 20mins using the write-up and pictures.

Thanks!!!

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MRE21
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Post by MRE21 » Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:04 pm

I tried to repair my switch today but the bloody thing is tricky to fix! The spring is stuck on the metal contact and I can't get it free. I have trimmed the plastic housing and tried to bend the alloy arm but the liitle brass contact inside the housing (at the bottom) gets in the way of the spring and jams? I take it the metal contact should be bent back away from the spring? What in Gods name is it for??? GRRR! I have no patience :evil:
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E21meister
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Post by E21meister » Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:52 pm

This is a copy of an article I have on my hard drive That I saved from Bimmerforums (thanks to Jester323):

Here are a few pics to go along with this... I've been meaning to recreate this ever since Fred's site went out of commission... Sorry for the crappy pics, my goo camera just died...
Pop the center grill in the dash out, a smaller flat head screw driver seems to help, then push the hazard switch out from the back side.

Use a pocket knife and a screwdriver to gently seperate the two halves.


Image


seperate slowly & the inner spring will stay near by.

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You can see here where the pin on the little metal arm slides in the groove on the opposite half.

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This is the pin/arm closer up:

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Use a pair of needle nose pliars and bend the arm in a tiny bit so that the pin/arm stay engaged with the corresponding groove.

Image

Then reassemble the pieces and test. No more Bic pen caps stuck in there to keep it turned off...
Image

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Bimmerman4Ever
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Post by Bimmerman4Ever » Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:25 am

I appreciate the write up and photos for the jumper.

My car was missing the top button on the hazard switch when I got it and just had some cardboard jammed in it. But it was causing a fuse to blow for my wipers and signals at random times, even when I was driving in heavy rain :shock: .

After the faulty hazard switch caused my stereo (triggered accessory power) to come on in the middle of the night, I pull that stupid thing out and put in the jumper. No more worries and mysterious electrical problems. :wink:
Past BMWs: 80 320i 85 528e 86 325e 88 325e 88 325i vert
89 325ix 93 740iL 95 525i (all 5 spd xcept 88s and iL)

now own a 03 BMW 1150RT
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Re: Hazard warning light switch

Post by Reck » Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:19 pm

Thanks for re-uploading those pictures meister. Just done this because I've my MOT tomorrow, worked a treat. A couple of things I thought might be helpful;

The book of lies says you need to remove steering wheel/fascia and instrument cluster to remove the switch. You can just prize off the vent on top (held on with a plastic clip in each corner), remove the connecting plug and push out the switch from behind with a screwdriver.

The bit I had most trouble with was prizing the switch apart. The plastic is really soft and bends/tears quite easily. Just be really careful and patient.

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pistonheader
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Re: Hazard warning light switch

Post by pistonheader » Fri Aug 27, 2010 3:09 pm

Reck wrote:Thanks for re-uploading those pictures meister. Just done this because I've my MOT tomorrow, worked a treat. A couple of things I thought might be helpful;

The book of lies says you need to remove steering wheel/fascia and instrument cluster to remove the switch. You can just prize off the vent on top (held on with a plastic clip in each corner), remove the connecting plug and push out the switch from behind with a screwdriver.

The bit I had most trouble with was prizing the switch apart. The plastic is really soft and bends/tears quite easily. Just be really careful and patient.
strange, on my last one the plastic was bloody tough and took some doing! glad you fixed it. for me, it worked for about 3 months, then failed again :( so i replaced it and it's been fine since, touch wood.

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