Just buy another engine, move your new timing gear over into it and get back on the case.
I know its a pain in the arse but your so close!!
Throw £250 quid at the problem and put it down to bad luck.
Starting with another engine will only end up costing you more i reckon.
I reckon it will cost me more, but I'd also gain 50bhp. I'm going to sleep on it now, and see what the insurance companies say in the morning.
Subframe engine mounts
After getting my RS2000 engine mounts I was able to fab up some basic brackets using some box section and my trusty angle grinder. Here's one before cutting.
As I needed the engine in the bay and I knew I was going to be doing this solo I made up some dummy mounts which were slotted so they could slide in and out of position without having to move the engine. Once I was happy I made up the slotless proper mounts and the engine sat perfectly according to my tape measure and bubble measure, I bolted them up to the rs2000 mounts.
I then tacked them in place and removed the engine (luckily this time there were no engine crane collapses...). Tacked in place
That's how I've made my engine mounts. I can weld, but not as well as Bodieandoyle so I've asked him nicely if he can pop over and do a better job than me when finally welding them in properly
Since the lowly 316 is bottom in the range in spec and power, it didn't need to have very powerful brakes. As well as converting the rear to discs with a 323i rear axle and trailing arms, I'm upgrading the front brakes too. I could of gone with 323i calipers, of which I have plenty in my spares, but I've also gained a pair of volvo 240 vented 4 pot calipers. As well as being 4 pot, it's said that they offer 30% more sweep on the rotors than the 323i calipers. They are also near bolt on upgrades, though a few modifications are needed and I haven't got to them yet.
4 pot volvo vs 2 pot 323i caliper
The volvo's cleaned with a wirecup and angle grinder, then a lick of hammerite
323i rotors (sourced for free by the ever kind BnD ), looking worse for wear
Much better, wirecup again
More brake updates in the near future when my mintex road-race pads arrive and I can bolt them onto the struts, and when I finally go and get a 323i axle off one of my cars!
Couple of ideas so far (literally top of my head stuff), smaller servo and modify current setup to shift it away from the engine. Mount it in the same place as LHD cars and rig up a brake linkage, I have scrap E30s and LHD E21s so it might be feasible. Remote servo is another option £££
With external boosters alot of trucks have very small units for the clutch pedal operation , hydro vacks as fitted to lots of early cars mostly italian never seem to have any reliability worth the trouble of fitting. 300zx and nissan patrols have a small booster that goes under the dash in those vehicles for the clutch.
Any idea i had is do away with any power assistances , work out the pedal leverage , master cylinder area , caliper piston area and see if the total pressure can with changing sizes of bore equal if not the same but better than the standard car. After all you don't see people complaining porsches have crap brakes. There sizing has always been large caliper piston area 38mm> 44mm x 4 front 26mm > 32mm rear vs anything from 16mm>19mm master cyinder bore size and they stop well with even low pedal leverage like 3:1.
How is the room at the rear of the engine bay where you could put a smaller master with external fluid res ?
I got mine off ebay, and it wasn't too pricey.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0267356517
Comes with cylinders, and if I can't get the ones they sent to work, I can always buy some more of different sizes.
1982 Saphirblau Baur 325i