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E12 tidy up.

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pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:52 pm

BertjeConti wrote:i think you gonna need to beef up your seat brackets, those M6 bolts will snap-off when that turboed engine launches :shock

nice build, keep on going...
what ya trying to say?. :loll

Engine now fully stripped and ready for cleaning, dipping and inspection.
plastigauges ordered.

have been looking for a kirkey seat for ages but not many premium ones come up for my "cough" big bones.

looks like if the pistons are 91.80mm they are the Mahle ones, so makes sense why people are getting 600hp on std bottom end.

google m30 turbo bigred.



pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 1:14 am

more piccys

Brand new turbo arrived today
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stripped
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first round with TFR and wire wheen on drill
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future cleaning tank
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tank for dipping the block
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dried out the block with propane torch then started rubbing down with red scotch and little oil and hone to see where we are at.
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found this
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hmmm the worst corrosion
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came out not to bad cannot feel it with finger nail, and barely with index finger tip

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bearing seats have been oiled.

other cylinder shots

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see the rust inside the water jacket
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the whole block will be dipped in the Bilt hamber deox-c got another 2kg in the post,then on to clean up, rinse, dry, bore measured, honed again, then measured, think i will chance the 2 marks in the cylinder.

deck will be checked for flatness with a 12x1" slip then sanded with same slip with p320-p400
see chart for micron to Pvalue equivelent
http://www.fine-tools.com/G10019.html

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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by bmw e12 e21 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 11:39 am

Wow, nice work! the engine block seems to be in good condition. :thumbsup
grt Remy

BMW e21 M315 1983 75pk+ 110Nm+ WEBER 32/36 DGAV
BMW e21 323i ED. S 1982 143pk 190Nm
BMW e12 M535i 1980 218pk 310Nm
BMW e91 318d 2009 190pk 411Nm
FORD Focus 1.8TDci 2010 115pk 300Nm

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:59 am

measured the bores
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haynes manual states 92.000 +/- 0.01mm
top edge of all 6 cylinders where there should be no wear ranged from 92.018mm to 92.024mm, i do believe that may be the factory size, unless previous worked honed it out a bit.
sizes as follows

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sizes are in mm, the " is habit, i work in imperial. top size was 20mm or so down from top deck

found a handy BMW tis in russian
http://tis.bmwcats.com/document/technic ... 00:w13004/

Tstsilindra a) 92.00 ± 0.01 mm
Bore - an intermediate size of a) 92.08 ± 0.01 mm
1 ) Repair and size ) 92.25 ± 0.01 mm
2 ) Repair and size ) 92.50 ± 0.01 mm
Permitted roundness and cylinder ) mm 0.01
Permissible taper and cylinder ) mm 0.01
The maximum permissible total wear clearance between piston and cylinder ( engine running) 0.15 mm
a) a new or processed

Bore taper i would say cylinder 3 &4 are on the limit
I presume the intermediate size is the maximum serviceable limit before rebore, so looks good. unless we start reboring an engine due to 3.9tenths of a thou wear.

next onto block de-rusting and then main line bearing checks, need to order the ARP stud h/w soon as well.

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 10:33 am

saw rod and joost E12 thread and realised i sold my e12 sump with the engine, crap, but then realised the e34 has the windage plates in it.

so will probably cut, winglet and baffle the E34 one to take advantage of the plates, i was looking at crank scrapers any way so this probably saved me $100
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just need to see if the oil pump clears o.k as well.

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Fri Sep 04, 2015 11:58 pm

de rusted the block using bilt hamber deox-c, if you heat the solution it really works well.

poured in hot water and maintained the temp using a 1950w dishwasher immersion heater £11 from ebay
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you can see how clean the water jacket is
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the cossosion was so heavy it could be scrapped with a screwdriver
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some flash rust after removal

block painted
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top deck was given a little rub with p600 and a straight edge
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end float check
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not within spec, 0.19mm so 0.02mm outwith spec.
thought i might as well check one of the clearances as well

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0.05mm is the upper end of the clearances, or 8 thou in old money.

I should have greased one side for a better reading but its close enough to confirm the engine is just worn to the upper limits through mileage.

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ARP head studs are on the way.

Athena coopering head gasket has arrived.

Hastings Moly piston rings are on the way.

now on the search for main bearings

acl or kings bearings look good.

I think the s52b32 bearings are the same:
Material Tri-metal
Min Std Shaft Size 2.3611in / 59.971mm
Max Std Shaft Size 2.3618in / 59.990mm
Min Std Tunnel Size 2.5591in / 65.000mm
Max Std Tunnel Size 2.5598in / 65.019mm
Max Wall at Crown 0.0980in / 2.490mm 0.0930in / 2.478mm
Max Overall Length
0.787in / 20.00mm - 1538H
0.982in / 24.94mm - 1539H
Notes Set contains 6 pairs of 1538H upper/lower shells for positions 1,2,3,4,5 & 7, and one pair of 1539H upper/lower flange shells for position 6.

taken from the ACL website, so time to get the vernier out again.

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:40 pm

Well, bearings removed and where stamped Glyco items, dated 89, so no one has been in the bottom end.

got this stuff for gaskets
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painted and installed dip stick
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cleaned and degrease, new glyco std bearings arrived from germany.
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though i would try some DFL therapy
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look on Molykote website search for D321-r

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Athena Coopering 0.078" headgasket arrived from italy as well.

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started cleaning pistons in prep for thermal barrier top coat and DFL on the skirts
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cleaned and keyed new filter housing lid for paint
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degraesed and washer out, ready to install
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just need to make a AN10 adapter for the cooler.

installed with
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good for semi permenent bolts

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chased out block threads

all cleaned up ready for end float check
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in-out-in-out shake it all about
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first install was to tight 0.002mm, back out rub on flat surface with p2000 and now sitting nice at 0.01mm.

all in for gap checks
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all caps removed where even and all under the 0.05mm max indicator, so i am judging its around the 0.04mm range.

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permenant locktight for the final install of the ARP main studs
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use some of this
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torqued to sequence....again... and looks like it did 1hr before
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but with a little more ARP Torque lube on it.

ARP head studs and piston rings should be here this week.

But ARP rod bolts wont be here till 2nd of October, so can crack on with other bits first.

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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by uwbuurman » Tue Sep 15, 2015 10:18 am

Man, I envy your skills! Looks great!
It's the man next door!

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Peter V.
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by Peter V. » Tue Sep 15, 2015 5:53 pm

That would be your next chapter Koos! Read and learn.

Nice work.
Gr Peter V.

.Some say he eats nuts and bolts for breakfast, all we know is he is called the carburetorman.

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pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:19 pm

Thanks folks, more to come soon. just waiting for parts.

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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by Jeroen » Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:08 am

Doing a brilliant job mate!!!
Regards/groeten, Jeroen

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pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:20 pm

Oil pump facts:
oil supply is only 50% filtered
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http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=954115

see above regarding oil deck restrictors.

Fwd supply hole supplies direct to engine, aft supply hole is straight to the filter housing via the check valve in the canister.

Put the air line on it to check.
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Both head supplies where filled with heavy grease, drilled to 8.5mm and tapped m10x1.5
rotate block, fill supply line with ATF and blown through to clear any debris.

Yes I didn't know about this before I installed the crank hence the heavy grease.

drill 3mm hole and slot for install
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I can see the merits of this mod, and i do like to drive engine hard, now and then.

installing aft end cap
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and lubed with this
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just bought all A2 stainless bolts, they arent that expensive and look good.

all internal parts get RED locktight, all external gets Blue/green locktight.

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new water pump and refreshed pulley
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was going to start balancing the rods
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but couldnt get repetitions of weight even within 5g using method above. I though crappy ebay scales, so checked all wrist pins and full rods, each repeated within 0.1g each time, so must be my method. will need to look into it.

installed other end cap, turbo drain & chain and tensioner/guides
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6mm dowel keys
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drilled Crank and pulley 19mm deep

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installed dowels to length
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this seams to be a common mod on the PPF Forum as a must for any engine build. Normally 1 dowel is enough, but i though 3 is better.
No locktight used as i may want to remove in the future, plus all torque is radial so the B&%$£$D nut is enough to hold the non tapered shaft in place.

Another reason is the 26 year old oil pump is now NLA or silly money if available, the Gears are all sold out, so options are, run the old pump, or try my hand at Dry sump conversion.

A Weaver 4 stage pump is on its way. :thumbsup

3 scavange 1 supply, plan is a billet adapter to oem oil supply, that will tie in the oem filter canister and thermostat oil cooler.

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:25 pm

still waiting on the ARP rod bolts before i can balance properly, plus have some plans for the OEM pistons that I can be working on.

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:04 pm

pistons got some love,

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5 thou bond layer 7 thou Yttria-stabilized zirconia

by the time i coat the valves and combustion chanber compression should be around 9.5-1

something else i have always wanted to do

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weaver 4 stage

pandemonium001
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Re: E12 tidy up.

Post by pandemonium001 » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:05 pm

ARP rod bolts have been despatched so eta 2-8 working days.

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