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Exactly, mine is also combined to dogleg gearbox

Was wondering, is it possible switch my car's (pre facelift) front suspension to after facelift just by swapping all needed parts? Or would there be some modifications/drilling etc required ?

And which parts would these be?
Final target of all this is that I can finally fit a thicker front ARB (25mm ones seem only to exist for after face lift models)

For example by just changing wishbones (I know these are different between pre and after facelift models, but what else is there that differs?) and of course the ARB, would job be done?
Has anyone done this?

The main front subframe is different as well

HTH

Ben

Which means that by replacing front subframe and wishbones (and of course ARB) all the rest are the same?
I wonder why did they do this however. Do late models have any better roadholding characteristics compared to early?

petroscf wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2019 2:21 pm I wonder why did they do this however. Do late models have any better roadholding characteristics compared to early?

(Or any other differences concerning suspension, roadholding, breaking etc. other wise why doing this)

Just do a parts check using realoem or bmwfans, could be the struts are different as well. Changed front geometry improved handling afaik.

If handling is indeed improved by replacing front subframe (etc. parts required for the swap) then there is another serious reason to do this, at least for somebody like myself who wants the car for driving and personal use and enjoyment
So apart from diff ratio (the final decision about which still needs another 5-10%), if this is doable, it seems I am already looking forward to my next conversion project on the car

Here is a technical question:

According to my experience, M10 engine on weber (or twin webers) is very much dependent on electrics (battery condition, alternator, sparks, spark plugs, ignition, timing etc. the whole lot of it) :

Good or bad electrics I believe can make big difference on engine's performance

At least, I remember very well that when I still had the 1.6 factory engine, when I first had it converted to weber 28/36 I had a significant difference, but some time later (1 or 2 years? I can't remember now) when I replaced almost all electrics the difference was huge, in everything, as if I had a totally refreshed engine: More torquey, and a bit of more power as well, significant economy, incredible results at the MOT emissions tests (half numbers compared to the test 2 years before).

Now with this engine we almost have everything (concerning electrics) done: Fresh (1 year) battery, new performance spark plugs, good and fairly fresh sparks, msd ignition (combined to good old points again as we removed the hot spark).

However, I believe that car's electrics are now rather more than they used to be (electric power steering, electronic gauges, electric fuel pump, even the msd I am not sure how much does it need to take from the battery in order to work)
So, especially when I use the car in town during winter and I need some electrics on such as rear antimist lines, lights, some heating, radio etc., I see the voltmeter gauge falling to less than 12 when car is idling.

I wrote further up that we have done ALMOST everything because there is something not yet done (and I am intending to do as my next step) :

Alternator.

This was replaced some years ago with a NEW (not reconditioned or rebuilt) part so this is why I did not want to replace it again.
However, as this part was (is) a factory specs replacement part, I was wondering whether I should find a larger output alternator and fit it.

I think there existed upgrade alternators of 80A(? or near) instead of 55A (I think 55 is the factory spec)

What are your opinions guys? I was thinking of finding one (I already have found one somewhere actually) and buying it, having it reconditioned and fitting it.
What difference do you believe I am going to have? Only in idle during winter? Or might this add up something to the engine 's performance and behavior?

I've done it almost 2 years ago, my E12 had a 55A alternator, and that wasn't enough during winter, and the megasquirt setup draws a lot of extra current. We have had a dead battery with this setup.

So i switched to a used 80A alternator, from a E30, which was a direct fit, only the power cable is also replaced for a heavier one, the 55A has a M6 power terminal and the 80A unit has a M8 terminal.

Since then the battery never died.

But apart from that (battery that does not die), no differences in engine performance?

No, if not massive bigger, no difference.

You are only suffering low output at idle, will be fine when driving. So I don't expect any difference in performance either. But switching to a 65A(+) alternator and a 63A battery my be wise otherwise the car may die on you in a traffic jam for example.

petroscf wrote: ↑Tue Dec 24, 2019 11:59 pm But apart from that (battery that does not die), no differences in engine performance?

No difference at all in engine performance, because the megasquirt system monitors the battery voltage and corrects timing for injectors and ignition coils as function of battery voltage. (So happy with this system)
But when you have a traditional ignition system, the battery voltage is important for a good powerfull spark.

Yeah, but then you need to consider sparkcables, distibutor and everything. And at idle it won't differ 50 rpms.

Ok got it
It only remains now to fit the part and see what happens
At least it might make the car a bit cleaner and maybe less thirsty at idle speeds