M10: Snap, crackle, pop and loss of power at 4k+ RPM.

[Reck]

Hi all,

M10 has been behaving lately with regards to oil and water loss/overheating - but now I've developed a new problem. Never apparent previously and I've not changed anything.

Under heavy acceleration/high RPM (e.g. above 4.5k - or around 60mph in lower gears and 80mph in 4/5) - the car bogs and makes a sort of popping/crackling sound (can't tell if it's coming from the carb?), and instantly loses power. It feels like it 'wants' to go through it but something is stopping it.

Plugs and leads look okay.
Cap and rotor are worn (especially the contacts) but the spring limiter seems to be functioning okay.
Just replaced the fuel filter.

I'm guessing either the fuel pump is on it's way out or the rotor arm desperately needs replacing - but what could cause the crackling/popping noise when it happens?! Any ideas?

[Jeroen]

Combined with the loss of fluids and overheating HG could very well be blown. Any sludge in the oil or cooling system? No color differences between the spark plugs? Did you do a compression test? And how expensive is it to fit a decent rotor arm and dizzy cap on an M10?

[Reck]

I just need to keep this engine running a few weeks. I have a freshly rebuilt M10 waiting to be fitted!

No sludge. As per post above - no fluids are really being lost lately and no overheating issues. Cap and rotor arm are in the post but I have work to get to tomorrow.

[nas80]

Coil knackered?

[drjim]

Fuel pump

[e21-Mark]

If rotor arm and cap are knackered it'll misfire and you'll lose power. New ones off eBay are only cheap. The ignition module could also be breaking down.

[Reck]

Cap and arm should be here tomorrow. Will try coil/ign module after that as I have both of those in my spares box. Fuel pump will be the last!

[Jeroen]

And coil is an easy change for testing as well. Keep us posted!

[Reck]

Cap and arm seem to have fixed it. Possible culprit was also the alternator grounding strap as it was adrift from the car which I reattached at the same time - the lower alternator mounting bolt had sheared off at the nut end where it was attached and batt was very low on juice. Thx all.

Need to order bolt #2 below now. Seems pretty secure as it is (still through both mounting 'rings' on the alternator), should be alright to drive until I get it replaced I reckon.. ?

[e21-Mark]

You should be able to pick up a suitable bolt from Halfrauds or somewhere?

Glad it's all running sweetly again anyway.

[Jeroen]

+1, good news!

[Reck]

Right you are, Mark. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255228

[drjim]

They know how to price stuff there don't they.