bmwe21.net forums

the guy i spoke to with the v6 e21 bought it for four grand (nz$) off a guy who apparently spent over $25,000 on it. it had some cool stuff like wrx bucket seats and nice wheels and paint, but no big diff, so it probably would blow them up occasionally.
is there a common high hp diff upgrade done in europe for e21s? or do people just replace diffs as they go?

yeah- e12 or e28 or e30 narrowed rear subframe and then you can run any large case BMW diff you like pretty much.

hi
i see there has been over 400 views to this thread, but not that many replies. i am always looking for ways to improve my car so if anyone has suggestions or can see something i could do better, please tell me your thoughts.
i was also wondering what the most powerful e21 there is, whether it be street or racer or whatever (even rotary or v8 or v12 powered). i once seen a video of a ten second e21 but i have no idea what it had in it. there must be plenty of high hp e21's around.
thanks

that would be a groupe 5 gt car 700 to 1000 hp somewhere around that figure the engine was 2.0l twin cam modified version of the m10 sexy little racer won alot of races i under stand. i don't like jap junk but cool idea although the handling is going to be a bit off the e21 front doesn't like alot of wieght i'd look into some machined sway bar pieces like torsion kit a solid rod mounted in tube with solid billet cradles and solid arm links to start or look for some other front susspension like a fox body ford after market kit might be doable it bolts in like stock part but haven't measuered to check difference in bolt pattern but the aftermarket kits are all tubular so cutting to fit isn't that hard just time consuming let me know what you decide i'd like to see where it goes.

the weight distribution might not be as bad as you think.... the motor he's fitted is all alloy afterall, and the V8 is shorter than the M20 so the weight is further back... have to see when it's finished.

He's also fitted a Nissan R200 diff in there- they are a pretty heavy unit, so it might help even the weight out too!

thanks for the replies. i have seen those old racers. they have crazy wide body kits. very 80's. thats some massive power too.
i have been thinking about a front strut brace (and also one for the back) and like the idea of all billet alloy. i will have to see what i can get made up over here.
as to the weight distribution, the v8 being all alloy and the 323i engine being iron block i dont think it will weight much, if any at all, more than the original motor. iv de-bumpered it and wont be running a bonnet, so that should shed a few kilos also, and the fuel tank and battery are now in the boot which will get the weight further back. when its finished ill put it on some scales and see what she weighs on each corner.
cheers

hi!
a quick weight scale:
bmw m60(small six)-388lb, lexusV8-470lb, ford windsor302ci-460lb.
the Lexus has amazing level of reinforcing,and 3 more cams..still the best choice to me!
I'm thinking of front+rear strutbrace after hearing a 2002 owner bragging of thedifference his front brace made to cornering steering and traction.. Also, on fleabayi saw an interesting thing- a b-pillar brace. It goes from the base of the b-pillar just behind the front seat and over the tunnel to the other side. it was for 200sx. But it got me thinking as the E21 cracks at the b-pillararound the base of the glass the way Jag's do at all 4 pillars to a pillar design fault.. might buy one and modify it... though i thinnk by then 3 bars would be a bit of a wank! apart from that, you sound a few steps ahead of me in the engineering dept
cant wait to see the weight! im a cornering man, if yourre going no bonnet, are you dragging??

hello alwaysideways.
nice username by the way.
thanks for the weight comparisons. my engine is further lightened, as i have removed the aircon pump, the powersteer pump, multiple idlers, pulleys and a tensioner, as well as several hoses and heaps of plastic covers.
i have seen b-pillar braces before, they're a snake like bar that goes across the floor and over the trans tunnel. i would rather have a half cage welded in, but these might do some good to chassis stiffness if you didn't want to go that far. i too have cracks around both b-pillars by the windows. i didnt know this was common and thought it was just a rusty area.
the no bonnet thing is more just that i dont want to cover the engine. the car wont be a daily driver and will not be parked anywhere so other than long trips i dont really see the need for a bonnet. also, in new zealand, i can have the car certified to be road legal with no bonnet.
and yes, it will be dragged, and maybe some drifting, if i can get good enough first...

Hi guys

The B pillars mostly crack on cars with rust as you've pointed out 340i... unfortunately this is a common area for rust on the early cars... apparently the later e21s don't rust in this area, and therfore don't crack! I've seen several of the later cars, and indeed they don't have cracked B pillars.

My car being a 79 does have rust and indeed has cracked a B-Pillar on the drivers side too!

Hmm interesting that in NZ you can register a car with no bonnet.... would be a deffinate no no in OZ.

Cheers

Last time i drove without a bonnet the policeman rode up next to me and stared down into it!!!

update on work;
i had to take the engine out again because the (custom setup) hydraulic clutch release bearing blew a seal the first time the car was run (after about an hour on the dyno). while its out, i have decided to fully re-do the engine bay to remove all the holes and some other stuff i didn't do good enough last time. the engine has also received some more polishing and modification.
for an idea of the hassle of getting the clutch release bearing out, i had to pull the engine and box out together due to not being able to get to the bellhousing bolts, and the custom one piece driveshaft not being able to be removed without taking the gearbox out first. i had to also remove the radiator, all wiring, and then both exhaust manifolds first to get to the engine mounts. all this is after removing the steering column linkage because the exhaust wont come out around it due to lack of space down there. i really dont want to do this again any time soon once the engine is back in. i have also chopped up the panel infront of the radiator so i dont have to lift the engine as high to get it out. it will now be a bolt in/out piece.
my custom led taillights and new rear end look is also coming along and i hope to have this done by the end of the week.

if you're not a certified engineer, yu should be!

i wish i was. i would be alot better off financially. lol. im a student.

alwaysideways wrote:. i have seen one modified (buick 3.8 v6 engine swap).

was it worth it? did he get out what he put in ?!?
blow diff's??

I been for a ride in a datto 1600 with a 3.8 v6 in it, went the clappers. standard motor with 5 spd box, can imagine what an e21 would be like with one.

you lucky NZs get import goodies cheep, bastards heh heh heh

4 cam awesome motor, i am really impressed with the quality and customising of the work, by sounds of things doing most of it yourself. breaking things is all part an parcel of building a nice car.

forgot to add, if you after more berries for it there is a company over here in queensland that make quad throttle body kits and blower kits for quad cams, and then put them into modified mazda mx5s.

what power is your motor making, standard they around 200mark at the fly, you only done bolt on mods?

if you going to drift it or even race it at any level i wouldnt muck around go get a full cage (legal in NZ??) be worth it in the end.