bmwe21.net forums

Can you take that with you on our Sunday tour? Curious what it looks like in the flesh, might want to order one myself!

No problem bringing this with me sunday J.

If someone can make a copy which is as durable as the original one i might be interested in a copy too.

Thanks! I do have the regular ball joint splitter. Works fine for the tie rod ends but cannot be used for the control arms. They usually come off after a bit of spirited hammering but this looks easier.

Measurements please. The more the better.

Size doesn't matter I'm told

Ive must have took off balljoints dozens of times now.. ive never ever needed that tool.

I just use that generic fork to seperate them couple of swift taps on that - ball joint easily seperated. my generic balljoint splitter even works even on the control arms.

nas80 wrote:Ive must have took off balljoints dozens of times now.. ive never ever needed that tool.

Depends on whether you want to use the balljoint again. The pickle/tuning fork type have a habit of tearing the rubber boots.

Also, you either need to be ambidexterous to do both sides or have a left-handed mate (or agile enough to get at the joint from under the car).

Can anyone confirm the oil issue? Do I still need it with gas shocks & is 30cc per shock the correct amount?

I believe you still need the oil. Its usually in between the shock and strut housing to help heat transfer away from the shock.

Ben

This is it, i will make measurements after this weekend.

I'm aware that you don't need this tool but as Andy mentioned, with this tool you can remove the balljoint without damaging anything.

AndyBaur wrote:

nas80 wrote:Ive must have took off balljoints dozens of times now.. ive never ever needed that tool.

Depends on whether you want to use the balljoint again. The pickle/tuning fork type have a habit of tearing the rubber boots.

Also, you either need to be ambidexterous to do both sides or have a left-handed mate (or agile enough to get at the joint from under the car).

I always replace the rubber boots they are pennies from my local motor factors.. I tend to find that they normally have a rip to begin with.. A good trick is to wipe a load of grease on the rubber boot and the legs of the fork this helps stop tearing.

The balljoint itself is not replaceable? It looks like a machine shop might be able to press it out & put a new one in.

New arms are 40 each.

Helping a mate replace the coilovers on his April 1977 318i with OEM struts. I know there was a change in the control arms around this time, are the early and late struts different as well? If so, how do you tell the difference?
He has a set of the 45mm struts which we are about to assemble but want to make sure before we strip it down. The right hand strut has the number 1746681 cast into the steering arm, can't read the number on the left strut as someone has bashed it trying to separate the control arm. All my E21s are late 323i so never had to deal with this before.

Control arms are 31.12.1.114.700 (left) & 31.12.1.114.701 (right) for a 1977 model.

Struts should be 31.31.1.114.714 (left) 31.31.1.114.715 (right).

There are normal & Sport types listed for my '82 320, none of which match the number you have.