bmwe21.net forums

Here is an off the ball idea, hydraulically assisted brakes???
no linkage, no vacume for turbo aplications they run of the pressure from the power stearing pump if you have one and you can route the hoses where you like.
standard pedal on these can produce line pressures of 2000psi and also should faulure happen they have built in acumulators/ spring assist toenable 3 full power stops before depletion.
here is one here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1992-Jaguar-X ... 4cfe26fe20

Or this
http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/pool/usa/pdfs/ ... Manual.pdf
12v electric back up and you can fit remote reservoirs.

Jason_323i wrote:Hydralic wise an e28 booster of the pas system. looks doable of the existing brake setup I think Danny's e21 had this.

Lose the booster all together, you need to use a larger master maybe of an e30 and mod the brake pedal pivot at least 6:1 ratio the master would fit the same was as a clutch.

I would use a e36 pedal box over a e30 as the servo is behind the pedal but again a lot of bulkhead work.

Or copy NAS

sorry didnt see you already suggested hydraulic assistance.

RHD e12 has a remote set up. You need two boosters to keep the split system for safety. I moved mine up to behind the headlights to make more room next to engine for the quad throttle body, but they can go anywhere.

you could upgrade the alternator at the same time an run something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYUNDAI-TRAJE ... 35c54ee42d
keep the noise in the engine bay.
put twin remote servos in behind the glove box?
vacuum hose could be run through the same hole as the heater hoses
then run your rear lines through the car along the recess in the inner cill, and fronts along the front bulkhead and into front wheel well.

Mods to pedals combined with E3 clutch master & remote servo have hopefully solved the problem. The SVC remote servo is for dual circuit systems.

yeah you just need to use a shorter link to the clevis there. and then drill a couple of holes in and then job jobbed.

TBH im thinking perhaps i should have gone and done it this way now lol.

What benefit is the E3 clutch master?
What is the boost ratio of the E21 booster?
I see the SVC booster is 1.9:1 but this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Servo- ... 5ae3b62822
is 2.3:1 and is only the 6" servo unit, even buying 2 its over £100 cheaper in total, if space will allow.
what size dual master are you planning on bolting to the bracket?

exactly lol. you need to do some maths mark. you can bolt it together but you need to work out the short fall of brake assistance by playing with master sizes.

I'm not using the e21 servo but have a selection of others to try. Mind you, I've run my 2002tii without any assistance at all for the past 6 months and the brakes are fine. Also have a selection of master cylinders of various bore to try. I want to see if we can take advantage of the extra force gained from a slightly smaller bore size? I'm going to go with trying and seeing what works. I may also look at different fulcrum point on the pedal itself?

Thats good if you have a selection of parts to try,
I did also notice the E21 has 3 fulcrum points acting on the master cylinder,the pedal ratio may not actually be the one applied to the E21 Master cylinder. if i remember right the pedal was around the 6:1 any way which is not far away and we could prob manage 7:1 out of it.
I do agree, No asistance is better, less to go wrong, less weight, but the trade off will be pedal travel for those that want big front brakes and rear discs, my brembos are 40 &42mm pistons.

There aint no substitute for square inches

I'm using Cosworth 4x4 calipers/discs with Hawk pads up front & OE 323 rears with Hawk pads (just waiting on confirmation that they'll do these for me)

They're only 278mm but still a fair improvement over stock, whilst still meaning I can run 15'' rims. I think anything bigger looks a bit odd.

i did measure the stock pedal - but i didnt write anything down.. maybe i got it wrong because i dont think it was a 6-1 it more like a 4-1?! i dont have a pedal to hand can someone measure it? You lose a lot of force in the stock system because of that metal bar - if you pressed hard enough you can even feel it bend silghtly. so the actual force at the master is further reduced. Thats why you really want to work it out before you put the system in. many hours of labour could be charged if you have to keep changing masters etc. its a rght PITA esp if you mount the twin thing in an awkward place.

heres some help

http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/brakecalcs.html

nas80 wrote:i did measure the stock pedal - but i didnt write anything down.. maybe i got it wrong because i dont think it was a 6-1 it more like a 4-1?! i dont have a pedal to hand can someone measure it? You lose a lot of force in the stock system because of that metal bar - if you pressed hard enough you can even feel it bend silghtly. so the actual force at the master is further reduced. Thats why you really want to work it out before you put the system in. many hours of labour could be charged if you have to keep changing masters etc. its a rght PITA esp if you mount the twin thing in an awkward place.

heres some help

http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/brakecalcs.html

You are right it is 4-1, measured it today, i must have been thinking of what you could re drill it to.
Anyhow here is another good calculator, prob one you used Nas80,
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/dual-mc-calc/