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I've been told to put a screwdriver across the two main terminals of the solenoid to jump it, but to be completely honest, the idea of it terrifies me, haha. If I wired push to start I'd do it through one of the horn buttons. Last thing a thief wants to do is make noise!

I totally forgot to update this! Current updates:
Jumping the two main studs has worked every time so far, so it gets the car going. Also allows the key to work normally afterwards as well. Works for a few days and then it's the same old story with a screwdriver to the terminals. That still doesn't quite narrow things down though. I finally jumped the exciter terminal on the starter to the battery and that also worked, but only one time so I want to try it a time or two more before I say it works for sure. That would imply the switch is the problem. But it still bothers the ever loving shit out of me that the solenoid still gets power from the switch. I'm going to replace the spade connector to the exciter to make sure that's all solid first though. The starter is under warranty but that's still a bitch to pull out, lol

Still is funny, especially that it works for a few days. Or is that luck or coincidence?

It's been very consistent so far with that pattern. It'll refuse to crank, I jump the starter, even for just a second, and the key will magically work again. Works for a few days and I have to bust out the screwdriver! Maybe I'll post a video or something so you can all see what I mean, it really is something else. My car seems to have a few gremlins inside!

You sure there's no after market immobiliser hiding somewere?

I reckon it's the switch. Maybe jumping the terminals sends current the other way too and there's a dodgy joint in the switch wiring that gets jolted back to life by the current.

Get the steering column shroud off and check the joints, also test the switch with a meter while you have the wiring disconnected (it's a big terminal block), plus wire in an extra switch while you are there. When it next fails to start, try your extra switch, if it works on that then it confirms the switch is the problem.

Sounds like a good approach to figure that out indeed!

Reck wrote:You sure there's no after market immobiliser hiding somewere?

Like a killswitch? I highly doubt it. I'm the 3rd owner, the second was my dad, and the first kept it bone stock.

drjim wrote:I reckon it's the switch. Maybe jumping the terminals sends current the other way too and there's a dodgy joint in the switch wiring that gets jolted back to life by the current.

Get the steering column shroud off and check the joints, also test the switch with a meter while you have the wiring disconnected (it's a big terminal block), plus wire in an extra switch while you are there. When it next fails to start, try your extra switch, if it works on that then it confirms the switch is the problem.

But the switch doesn't go to the run position when I'm jumping it, so how would it backfeed? Its definitely worth a shot to wire in a push to start button while I'm at it though, just to be sure.

Confirmed as the solenoid
Started wiring up a push to start button to eliminate the switch, went to grab my dad's soldering iron and found a remote starter! Hooked that up to the exciter wire and was lucky enough to catch it when the solenoid would kick but not turn over. Tried like 5 times in a row and the 5th time it finally worked. Something in that solenoid is shot. Not the news I wanted but at least I know

Well at least it's clear now!

I'm so terrible at updating this. I finally replaced it a week or so ago. The assembly the gear that meshes with the flywheel is on that moves back and forth to engage, was completely just flopping around. Something was completely messed up in that unit. New one hasn't given me and troubles since!