Missing ignition on cylinders 4 and 2, please help! (Solved, issue was torn fuel distributor orings)

[Stand-in]

Honestly when I put the cylinder head together the entire thing was in a state of complete disassembly, and I was a complete know-nothing about cars as of 8 months ago. Turns out he had left the spring off the tensioner, and therefor my brain did not associate it! Anyways it had only been driven for almost 100 miles since then and revved out maybe 10 times for engine diagnostic purposes. Anyways I took a look at the sprockets and chain, they hold tight and have no slop anymore, plus I cant see "burn" or abrasions in the metal. So I think that it doesn't need a replacement, I will upload a photo of the timing set up tomorrow.
And as to dispel any confusion on the matter; IT WAS MY FAULT!

[Jeroen]

Well, there are harder ways to learn, in other words: could have been much worse. Fix, and enjoy!

[Stand-in]

Well, there are harder ways to learn, in other words: could have been much worse. Fix, and enjoy!

That is damn right, I dropped the oil and checked it for metal shavings, thankfully I found none, but by god I could have burned a massive hole in my wallet.

[Stand-in]

Update, its running well but not without issues. I have noticed that under full throttle it bogs down, and blows blue in 1st and 2nd gear, particularly in high load scenarios. Also of note is that getting off throttle seems to improve the situation. Anyways, I looked in the lines and changed the filter along with eliminating vacuum leaks, and while they all helped a little they have not fixed the situation. The car runs normally and has no odors or smell at idle/light acceleration and cruising, and it also has no issue running at higher rpms. I know this as I was in 4th going 90 down the freeway, (traffic was also at that speed so I will hear nothing as to legality) hovering at just above 4k rpms. This was the limit as to where it bogs down due to too much throttle application. I think too little fuel is making it to the distributor dropping the afm sensor resistance causing the fuel to dump into the injectors (in second the car pulses going up hill, like mashing on and off throttle with out input from me).
My fuel pump is also noisy and I suspect it may have taken some damage from my issues with the bad fuel, however I can limp it around for now. I also have noticed that oil has migrated its way in aerosol form I(I have checked for excessive blow by) into my intake so I will look into a catch/valve just to reduce the amount I burn. My engine also blows 130 psi all around now, I suspect the prior numbers were due to carbon in the oil ring, and so it manages to get that standard 23mpg around town.
Also as a PSA e3 spark plugs do not play well with e21s; after trying them on the behest of my friends I found they made contact with my exhaust valve creating a noise that sounds like both knock and a bad rocker. Anyways I am switching to NGKs and will be acquiring a pertronixs hot spark down the road. More engine flush should also make things a bit better as the engine lower was filthy, I suspect the prior owner used subpar oil, but luckily the engine seems to be quite low in the noise factor now that everything is lashed right. I am currently running moly classic as it seemed the best at the time but I will be moving to Valvoline vr1 as its a racing oil and I want the added anti foam protection as I am a bit of a hot head on the road. Also the cleaning/zinc content seems to be better formulated, but I have yet to see any hard data on liquimoly classic.
So far this car has been rather fun, I quite enjoy hocking it through the corners, and the heavy rains have also been nice to play around in too. The suspension is just brilliant for the poor but well paved roads I drive on, lumps and all.

[Stand-in]

Well, I used fuel system cleaner and that seemed to do the trick, no idea about the colors out the tail pipe yet however, as I was driving it at night and was simply taking note of the bogging issue's lack of existence.