the little knob thing inside the cluster is the adjustment for the shift light. . . iv not actually seen it light up yet but im sure iv set it to around 6k. . . ALSO. . . the illumination light dims with the rest of the interior via the light switch
ah ok fair enough. . . i was going to ask the question on m10 rev limit too. . . would adjusting the govenor be a good idea to try and rev it a bit more? or should they not be revved more than 6?
Tomc has fitted an M42, and I had one nearly in as well before I smashed the engine. Custom engine mounts are probably the hardest part of the swap, as well as an exhaust system. The manifold fits around the steering link, but you will need to adapt the old system to bridge it to the manifold and I've heard you will want a better exhaust than the M10 system anyway. M10 gearboxes won't fit, but M20s will bolt up except it will be rotated slightly if the engine sits properly level as the bolt pattern is rotated. You can use the M42 gearbox and an E30 prop fits perfectly and everything will be level, but you will lose the speedo. But then again my M50 shares the M42 gearbox bolt pattern and I've fitted an M20 box and bolted it up to the standard gearbox mounts and it's not that far out.
I started this conversion, and would be driving my car now had I not smashed my engine dropping it off an engine crane. I stopped and got an M50 6 cylinder instead, which is much harder to fit! If you look at my build thread in owners gallery, the early pages were dedicated to my M42 swap.
damn. . . i cant help but think there something very very wrong with my engine. its weird because the engine runs smooth, idles at 800rpm when warm, starts up on the button, 79k on the clock, no knocks or funny noises and the tappets are quiet as little mice. but it doesnt want to rev in the higher regions for some reason. maybe a proper carb should for out my troubles?
You may just need a proper tune up - new plugs leads dizzy cap and rotor arm made a noticeable difference to my car just before I got the new weber fitted. Electics might explain a hesitancy to rev past midrange. Equally your fuel filter could be clogged up and affecting flow, or your fuel pump may be struggling to supply enough juice.
I advise a tune up at a reputable garage so you can take it back if you aren't happy. Alternatively do what I did and buy all the bits, fit them yourself, then take it to a rolling road for the final setup (overkill but fun!).
Sounds like it could be the distributor - siezed weights and base plate means the timing can't allow for the change in engine speed. Soak the internals in WD40 and move the plate to and fro to make sure all is as it should be.
cheers fellers for all the advise. i think ill go out and spend some money on good old mechanics and service equipement. im handy with a spanner so im 100% sure i can get the parts fitted. i think for tuning ill hand it over to the greesers. i cant imagine the distributers ever been changed and on opening the oil cap it i noticed it needs an oil change because the oil seems very thick. also i need to raise it, so new springs are on the list. . . anyone got any standard 316 springs going?
P.s. Wizor, im still going to need the manual conversion bits, im sorry its taken me so long. i picked myself a nice 323i for cheap so have been busy looking for a place i can store it for free as it hasnt got road tax. sorry and thanks
when i had the car mate i was going to strip and clean the carb out as it was caked in the proverbial but never got round to it, i know what you mean about it being slow, but i had a look at the dizzy and it seemed fine when i had it, as the guys were sayin maybe it needs a tune up, when i got it the car had been sat for at least 3 years so that probably hasnt done it any favours, i should imagine a manual box would make quite a difference?
