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problemchild75 wrote: I'm considering using the 21 so 100mph+ cruising will be necessary.

Nice no problem. The real problems start at 125mph and up and then dry step on the brakes...

Was at a BMW meet a week ago. It was amazing at the course,went really good.
The problems started when heading back hoe again.



Now yesterday it was like this....



One conrod bad, crank is to be polished and a new conrod installed.

FML

I went through the exact same thing last week. Feel your pain there.

So how did it happen?

With my modified oil sump I probably lost oil pressure in tight corners.
I am now putting on VDO oil pressure.

Sad to hear that! Yup, oil pickup is an issue when modifying oil pans, also take into consideration what happens in long turns, modded pan may require a modified oil pan baffle as well. Pity to have more work lined up while you were more or less finished

Have you considered an accusump? Gives a reserve of oil for the engine to use in those long turns, without the expense of a dry sump. small price for insurance against this happening again.



http://www.accusump.com/

polov8 wrote:Have you considered an accusump? Gives a reserve of oil for the engine to use in those long turns, without the expense of a dry sump. small price for insurance against this happening again.



http://www.accusump.com/

Yes i have already checked it out last week,i don`t quite understand where to connect i though..
But the idea is very good.
I first of all need a baffle in the sump and maybe higher oil level.

But thanks for tip
The engine will be mounted together this weekend.
Need to modify oil baffle,so within the next two weeks the car should be ready again.

can you show a picture of your sump? I wonder if it is anything like my method?

I put wings on the side (to keep up the capacity) and where the wings joined on the internal side I didn't leave open gap instead I got the fabricator to block the hole and then drill smaller holes in the block, to make essentially a bit of a baffle. my problems started because the fabricator misjudged the length of the oil pickup.

The accusump would tap into your oil cooler line? I think the bigger problem is finding the space to fit the accusump?!

manual for accusump is here :

http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

though I dont get the idea with this solution...prices for a kit are around 300 USD

bad luck with the engine, car is looking proper sorted, and you where just starting to get to enjoy it

I remember reading about those sump accumulators a few years ago, but i personally would not bother with one.
They work kind of like a half full bottle of fizzy pop, shake it, both the gas and the fluid are under pressure but seperated by a barrier of some sort.
when your oil pressure drops the switch is set to open the valve at a set psi, just like opening the cap of the pop bottle. we all know what happens then
oil is released at an ever decreasing pressure to suppliment the pump until the air bladder has equalised with the atmosphere, then nothing until the pump can get its oil feed back and re-pressurise the accumulator.
gas is compressable, fluid is not.

I recon a 2 us quart accumulator would get you around 30 seconds of grace with the oil system, that is a very long corner.
Has any one seen this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-e36-M3-3- ... _460wt_922

I plan on doing a diy dry sump for the m44 using a s52 main pump for scavange that should give me the 1/3rd extra scavange capacity.
this is interesting:
http://performanceforums.com/forums/sho ... nstruction

They're not really anything like a bottle of fizzy pop, there are an awful lot of race cars out there running these systems and the tank can be placed anywhere and at nearly any angle, unlike a drysump tank.

From the website:
An Accusump is an oil reservoir that is connected to the engine's oiling system. It is designed to deliver pressurized oil to an engine before starting to eliminate dry start scuffing (pre-oiling) and to discharge its reservoir of oil during low oil pressure surges to protect against engine damage during demanding racing conditions. It installs simply with only one oil line connecting it. This oil line may be plumbed into the return line of an oil cooler or remote filter using a "T" fitting, into an oil input sandwich adapter, or directly into one of the engine's oil galleys. The Accusump's design includes a piston. On one side of this piston is pressurized air and on the other side of the piston is the reserve of oil. To hold this reserve of oil in the Accusump when the engine is not running and there is no pressure to hold it, a valve must be installed on the oil line (see Manual or Electric Valves below). An air-pressure gauge and an air-fill valve come standard, along with complete installation instructions. Units with electric valves include wire, terminals and toggle switch. The electric units provide a more convenient means of operating the Accusump since they can be wired directly into the ignition.

pandemonium001 wrote: but i personally would not bother with one.

Just my opinion. Plenty of people dont use them as well.

pandemonium001 wrote:I recon a 2 us quart accumulator would get you around 30 seconds of grace with the oil system, that is a very long corner.

I am not saying it is completely pointless!

polov8 wrote: On one side of this piston is pressurized air and on the other side of the piston is the reserve of oil.

sounds like my fizzy pop bottle description to me just without the psi guage and valve.
Both examples work by the compressed gas trying to equalise to the atmosphere. does not matter if its oil or cola.


I was trying to give a visual representation after 3 people stated they did not fully understand how they worked. I presumed they had followed the links and had already read the description.

Nas- i had it made lower and ekstra oilreservoir rear against the sub.


In this way corners should not have any effect. I was wrong..

I make two baffles and buy the accu i guess.
I do not want to do this again.

Bit i dont think its a good idea to connect this to the oilcooler line.
Oil cooler has thermostatic control,so if the thermostat's not open yet- the accu wont work...

What about the oil pressure switch outlet?

The idea is ok. Without a baffle of some kind, the oil will rush to the back under power. The pickup is near the front side of the sump.

The Accusump may work on the pressure switch line on a T junction?

At least you caught it before you spun a bearing. Are your cams ok?