bmwe21.net forums

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:19 pm**

RetroBeemer wrote:MANUAL!

agreed

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:32 pm**

sure?

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:33 pm**

Definately

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:45 pm**

And where is the cable to be found?
(And what should I look for, a new or a used one?)

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:00 pm**

petroscf wrote:And where is the cable to be found?
(And what should I look for, a new or a used one?)

this is the one i have, as said, it's been good as gold

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHOKE-CABLE-54-TO ... 53e24d6d59

whether they'll post to greece i don't know.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:49 am**

sorry i didn't post pics up last night, i was really busy. will post them up later today...promise!!

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 1:55 pm**

here you go, not sure if any good for you

Ross

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 1:58 pm**

petroscf wrote:
Reck wrote:Better MPG.. Cutting out at high speeds though. That may yet be traced back to the fuel pump though.
Sorry for my bad english, but what do you mean by "cutting out at high speeds" ?
You mean that the better economy mentioned above ("better MPG") is cut out at high speeds, or do you mean that the car cuts out in high speeds, so this equals to worse performance?
If it is the 1st, then this is not bad, it is more sincere IMHO, this means that this carb can give you economy if want, or performance if you prefer..
It would be much worse if you had worse economy at low speeds, and also worse performance at high speeds...
All this is a question, as I just ordered a weber carb from Mark and I am trying to foresee what to expect when I fit it on the car...

Sorry, missed this post. I mean the engine actually cut out/misfired after putting my foot down. Seems to have stopped happening now for some reason which makes me think it could have just been a dodgy HT lead.. But yeah as mentioned, it could also have been the fuel pump or the carb being slightly wrong for the car since it came from an early E30..

Either way, it was only an intermittent problem that sorted itself eventually and the benefits far outweighed it. The car turns over first time every time now with the weber even in the freezing cold.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 1:59 pm**

Thank you!!!
Very helpful pics!!!
My only problem is that the whole system is very...visible
(I love the good interior looks, I am trying to hide all mods, as if they were factory made)
I 'll try to work out a way to do it...

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:00 pm**

Ps. I routed my cable through the blank button on the left hand side of the dash i.e. where the headlight pull switch/rear window heater button is, but on the opposite side.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:06 pm**

that's a good idea for routing the cable!!!
Only I presently use all 4 places: 1) the factory pull-out headlight switch
2)the rear windshield heating lines button, 3)front foggies, 4)red alarm led
I could route the alarm led elsewhere and use this place...

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:51 pm**

Personally I would screw the L shaped bracket beneath the dash under the button to alter the clock.

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:53 pm**

???
Don't think I understood where exactly you mean........???

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:08 pm**

pistonheader wrote:

You see the button to change time on the clock? Underneath it you could make a small hole for the cable and it would be hidden by the card panel.

Maybe someone else can draw on the picture to explain better?

Posted: **Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:13 pm**

Oh, I think I got it.
However, you are (probably??)basing the whole thing on the later dash(??), I have the earlier, so there is the Hazzard switch instead of that clock changing button, the car's clock is in the middle of my car's dash, between the heater knobs

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Weber converted m10's