bmwe21.net forums

Pfff, I had some thoughts it will never work out the right way. Last week I opened her up to replace timing belt. I asked my father if I should find out first which it was, but my father told me it wasn't our problem and he contacted his parts supplier. They delivered a nice timing belt, Tooth belt semicircular profile with Z=127 to be precise. Opened her up and you can guess what happened! Yes my car has a Tooth belt rectangular profile Z=110, so I brought the other one back and ordered that one. Build my little BMW back up and it bakc in place. After a week I found some time (last night) to put on the right belt. Put the car in the garage at home like this:

Started disassembling again, removing the radiator for some more room and removing the pully's and dynamo:

I removed last bits and pieces and this showed up nicely under there. The rectangular profile timingbelt:

Allright, it didn't look that difficult till now. Put the markers on the right places and remove the belt. Piece of cake, tried and check it with the new belt. Did look quite good, but it seemed to be a little bit longer. We thought this was our imagination, but after tried to install the new it didn't fit as it should. Looked at the box, rectangular profile Z=111 . What! Again they gave me a wrong timing belt with a tooth to much. We put it back together with the old belt till next time and guess what. Now it doesn't run anymore . Think Murphy's law still counts here, everything that can go wrong, goes totally wrong. Hope to receive the right belt tommorow and get it open again. Hope to get it up and running as well, don't like the idea that it is standing there and not able to start .

Gerwin

Bad luck m8!
I hope your next timing belt is the right one!


btw, I dont realy understand why you got a carburettor and say its an 320i?

Dennis

hahahahaha and I had simular problem. As Jeroen mentioned there are 2 (updated)versions: the 110-111 and the 127-128
Your also have to order a new 'spanrol' due to the longer belt. Difference between the old spanner and the 'updated' version is just a little bit.
Just be patience and double check everything.

And by the looks of it and when in Rome I'd replace the water pump as well. It's the old version up to 2/81. Replace the gasket as well and make sure the fitting surface on the engine is guaranteed 100% clean!

Correct Jeroen - also change your waterpump.

And;


diff. from my 127/128 tensioner - so change it to

the 128 tensioner;


the 127 tensioner;

Nils wrote:
Remember that there are 2 different types of timing belts. Be shure you will get the correct one.

Actually kind of dumb not to listen to the pro's... but glad you corrected your mistake...

Pfff, finally sorted it out this weekend. Received the correct timing belt (Z=110) and fitted it. We found out that the pully of the ignition was moved, that was also the reason it didn't start. It is running very nice again, put it back together again. But still not having it ready for MOT, took some green license plates and drove it around for like 10 minutes or so to check everything out. First I was a bit worried of seeing the temperature meter go next to the middle, but I think that is normal because it stayed there? It is not running hot at least. Now I have to replace the dustcaps on the fuseekogel? and weld a little hole in the front wheelwell. Figured out with the little testdrive that the front brake aren't sorted out as well. Slowly but surely getting there.

Gerwin

Gerwin,

IMHO it's always amazing how much smoother the engine performs after a fresh timing belt. Couldn't imagine the starting problem was anything else but I'm glad she's running again.

The dustcaps can not be bought at the dealerships but you should be able to get them at the general parts store, just bring an example to make sure you get the right version. Uhm and be prepared for some cursing as these balljoints can be a pain in the butt to remove from the struts.

And I'd definitely give the front brakes an overhaul, just new pads, rotors and fluid won't make them any better I expect...

Thegs wrote:. First I was a bit worried of seeing the temperature meter go next to the middle, but I think that is normal because it stayed there? It is not running hot at least.

It is normal the needle points to the middle or a bit over the middle... so don't be alarmed. Keep your eye on the needle, though...

Oops forgot to answer that one... thanks Nils!

Nils wrote:

Thegs wrote:. First I was a bit worried of seeing the temperature meter go next to the middle, but I think that is normal because it stayed there? It is not running hot at least.

It is normal the needle points to the middle or a bit over the middle... so don't be alarmed. Keep your eye on the needle, though...

owwwkay.. so there goes possibly the answer of a thread I was going to throw?? on my 316, it does that too... till the middle, but never above it and my rad´s full...

Nikkie

No worries there, then....

well, as long as it doesn´t burn...

´nique

Pfff, guys (and girls of course) I really need some advice here. I have everything sorted out for MOT except for the dustcaps on the fusee. I just can't get the damned this lose! Does anyone have a tip to get it lose? Is it possible to heat it up and remove it?

The dustcap I have to replace is number 16! I thought unscrewing bolt number 14 was enough, but I just can not get it off. Please help, I want to get it on the street and drive it now .

Gerwin

you reall require a special tool to remove this, the last time i removed them it was for replacement and so a big hammer was all that was required as they were not going back on, if I were you i would just fit new arms to both sides as the ball joints tend to wear anyway.