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i think you should weld a snow plough to the front

ha, I could just lower it and I wouldn't need to!

any more work on the car?

well, the back is raised for even tire tuckage/proper stance. that was done with some simple coilover adjustments. I also had to re-do the fuel breather system. I removed the charcoal can and that was that, didn't think about how the fuel tanks wouldn't breathe well enough through that long skinny tube, plus I discovered the breather lines at the top of the tanks were rotten when I discovered a puddle of gas under my car after getting it filled. the car runs much better with the fuel tanks breathing properly, pics on that soon. I also cleaned up the mess of wires in the interior a bit and I have a mechanical choke.

I've been busy with some things lately and I'm doing some stuff to my truck, so the car is on the back burner for now. I have a kind of thought out plan on how to get up travel out of my front suspension again with the same height, so that's good.

well, oodles of things are different on this car since I last posted. where to begin? well, I hacked the sub frame up to mount the control arms 3/4" higher and boxed and gusseted it all up.. lots o notching to make the control arms clear it outside of the mounting points as well.. also, I shortened my strut housings and I'm running toyota Mr. 2 struts.. cause I wasn't even low before.. I'm still not much lower, but I have travel. pretty sure I can set it firmly on the ground with the coilovers adjusted all the way down. also, it's lower now than it is in the last pic.. but only a little.






new dash panel and E30 seats:



out of order pics of shortening strut housings, I had to run a spacer inside of the housings (the DOM tubing depicted) because the MR 2 struts are over 4" shorter than stock, I'm only running my housings 2-1/4" shorter than stock.






out of order pics of sub frame modification:


there is an extra plate welded to the bottom now so I don't wear through the stock thin metal... the extra plate isn't too thick, don't worry, it's like 1/16th of an inch or 3/32nd's or whatever.











that's a crash course of the major things that have happened to the car in the past 6 months or so.

oh yea, since I'm basically going in reverse order on this page, here's a pic of the old setup where I was bottomed out... as you can see, the control arm is hitting the sub frame.. LULZZ!



oh, and here's some pics of it not quite as low as it is now (only by a fraction of an inch) on wheels that didn't look so hot in comparison to the bangin' jawns I'm flossin' with now.

what happened to the cool white wheels? they looked rad!

not to worry, I'm on the white Ramzz now, if you read closely, you'll see that the pics with stock wheels are from before I was flossin with the white wheels.

Car looks mean, loving it and the seats

thanks, it's not looking quite as mean right now though...

you see, it appears that one of my CV's bound up and made me loose control of my car... the drive line kinked real bad and ruined the gas tank and exhaust while heavily modifying the trans tunnel and ripping the transmission mount out of the factory slots on the body... yea, I'm just lucky I didn't hit anyone. I was passing my friend, then I hear a really bad noise, followed by tire noise and metal on pavement noise, then I did a 360 infront of my friend's bug that has crappy drum brakes, came out of the 360, and kind of did a drift onto the shoulder of the road. it took two tow trucks to recover it. a regular one to get it on the road, and a flat bed to get it into town...

here's a few carnage pics, I should have pics of the scene of the accident soon.
































it's going to be a little while till I fix this I think...

holy crap man, glad your ok, do you know what snapped first? im guessing by the looks if it, gearbox mount snapped dropped the prop onto the floor and shattererd it and did damage all they way down???

pretty certain that the CV went first, binding up the whole operation, which would have kinked the drive line, which ripped the tranny mount I made out of the factory slots when it bound against the floor of the car. big mess.

anyways, I've made a little progress:






as you can see, the stock tranny mounting area has been reinforced with plating, now if I kink another drive line (sure hope I don't), the car will rip itself apart... not sure if that's better or worse yet.

here's the tranny mount complete with the tabs welded onto the car.

that looks nice and strong

the propshaft you where running before........... did you make it yourself? have you found out why the CV exploded yet? little unbalanced maybe?

yea, I did make the drive line myself. As some of you may know, BMW has a really idiotic way of making drive lines, so the yokes don't just weld into a tube like they should...but I did anyways since drive line shops said they couldn't help me. It was a bit unbalanced, but I'm pretty certain that it wasn't related to the CV exploding, but the CV sure killed the drive line. I think I just cracked the cage in the CV while doing burnouts or something, and it was probably just barely hanging on before it exploded at speed. makes me afraid to do burnouts... I'm thinking once in a while I'll throw some old CV's on the car, and not drive fast, and do some burnouts. there are burnout competitions at a few car shows, and I'm always something liek 24 bolts away from changing CV's... then I don't have to worry about the new ones I plan to get breaking on the highway.

an adapter to run RX7 drive line ends on both ends of the drive line is in the works, since the RX7 drive line ends weld into a tube like they should, a drive line shop can easily just make me a drive line that will be 100% legit. the RX7 yokes I'll be using also have replaceable U-joints unlike the BMW stuff.

climate control is over rated.