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The guy at the mot station said he was happy the underside was clean cos for once it meant he wouldn't get any dirt in his eyes lol .

I did get some advisories. Improper brake balance on the rear brakes (need to bleed), pitted front disks, and some wear on the inner edge of my tyres. They can never give a clean sheet for once ever can they!!

Were the rear brakes not working, working too much or is it side to side?

Just checked my cylinders, I have 0.7" front and 0.75 rear. Clutch has 0.625"

Bias is as far forward as the box will allow.

I also have a proportioning valve in the rear circuit to stop rears locking.

Great news.
i think he means from left to right balance. that would make the car unstable when braking.
im pretty sure for the uk hgv test a brake lock up of both wheels on an axle is an instant pass, regardless of the readings. not sure how it applies to cars

Side to side. I must have air in my calipers. Pain in the ass to bleed bias boxes.

Hmm.

I run .625 front, 0.70 rear and .75 clutch. I can't get the brakes to lock up. But they are way better now I wound some more force to the front. (Lol) pedal is like pushing a brick. Perhaps I need to take a look at the set-up again.

My clutch is very heavy! Is yours Jim? Maybe that's why I need a .625? Is yours light?

I'm going to remove the masters again... I need to weld another mount on the front side of the pedal box cos there's flex.


If anyone is thinking about doing a bias box. Believe me do NOT buy OBP. Flexible utter tripe. I may as well have made my own box considering how much bracing I've had to weld onto the standard effort.

You cannot adjust the pedals, even if you cut the masters push rods down the pedals are still a couple of inch too high. I need to create some spacers. I did email and ask obp for advice or for suggestions they told me to buy a floor mount system!?

Wish I had spent more n bought a Tilton or willwood setup. One day I will if only for the extra adjustment.

Cant you cut extend and brace the pedals, that way you will increase the pedal ratio and get them to a better position at the same time while keeping the larger cylinders to keep the pedal travel to a minimum?

Use a clean dry old washer bottle and pump, a scrap cap with a fitting and pressurise the whole system with it, you can then concentrate on the bleed nipples and pumping the pedal to get air out the cylinders.
unbolt the calipers and give them a shake and always bleed with the nipple at the top.

i bought one of those cheap bottle pressurisation kits from halfords designed to run from a tyre, cut the fitting off and now connect to the compressor at 14psi.

never had any problems.

You can't move the pivot on these pedal boxes. It's a 6:1 ratio anyway. Yea I did think of that vacuum feed bleeder. Going to buy one for sure

Weird if the pedal is like a brick but you can't get the wheels to lock, that should be easy with stock brakes already.

You need more front bias.

Also I can lock the slugs wheels, I have the same calipers, effectively same pedal box. However you have a shedload more weight - erm carpet, interior, bonnet, 6 pot. So your car will behave differently anyway. Should still be able to lock if you really try.

Did you do the static setup where you get the fronts to lock then adjust so the rears are still free with wheels in the air first?

Either way more front bias.

I used a pressure bleeder but the reservoirs that came with my pedal box were crap and the lid basically blew off sending a fountain of dot4 over the car. On the slug this wasn't an issue really...

Did you shorten the master clyninder rod down, are you getting full travel on the master clylinder.

Yes I did shorten them. The front master rod isnt as long as the rear. And I am thinking that's my mistake?

I did see if I could get full travel when it had no fluid. However I only get like an inch or so of movement now with fluid in there

Don't get me wrong the brakes do work.. I just expected them to be way more powerful. I am going to bleed them all again and adjust the bias again. I have ordered some ds2500 pads. I think the willwood pads are some of my problem

Sounds like you need the spacers for the masters and stock lenght rods.

I think I need a Tilton 900 series floor mount.

Hopefully if Jamie doesn't forget to ask his fabrication mate maybe I will get some spacers this year.

The rod lengths have only been cut down maybe 10mm or so. I made the front one shorter by screwing it into the clevis a bit more. i read lots of people do this and its right way?