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hi everyone, today i have finally received a new water pump and also some new temp switch's for the radiator electric fan which doesnt come on.

Water pump began leaking a little while ago so will replace, is this pretty straight forward? anything to watch out for? (i have the haynes manual to follow instructions)

I discovered a while ago one of the rad temp switch's terminals had broken off, so ordered some replacement ones. Does anyone know which temp sensor goes in the top position? 91c or 99c?
item 22 here - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=60

finally i am looking at removing the Air Con, it doesnt run at the moment, and im not too worried about fixing it, the wiring is a total mess and im not sure where to start with it so i think it would be easier and neater to just remove it all. plus removing the condensor from in front of the radiator should assist with the performance of the radiator and electric fan.

i'll post some pics when i start working on it, and one other thing i just remembered is the engine mounts, are these easy to change? my current ones are very worn (will post pic later) and i have a couple of new ones..

appreciate any assistance...

here you can see the dodgy temp sensor(s), i've realised i should be able to see the temp written on the sides of these so should be able to swap them out with the new ones correctly. I beleive the pipe on the left with the hose clamps is for the transmission oil (?) i think they connect to a small coil infront of the ac condensor, i think the pipe is cracked and been patched where the hose clamps are or something and its leaking a bit of oil



and here are the worn engine mounts



this one doenst look as bad as the other one



note the damage to the sump pan car is too low, scrapes on all the speed bumps! was hoping new engine mounts would lift the sump an inch or two but the new mounts dont look a heck of a lot taller than the worn ones..

those engine mounts look ok to me to be honest,

really? cos they're the only ones i've ever seen so dont really have a comparison!
the first one has a lot of little cracks in it and looks very brittle, is it much of a job to swap them out?
the new ones were cheap so if they dont need swapping its no biggy, though i'd like to put em in.. unless its a pain in the anus hole...?

no no change them, the only way to tell if there fooked is if the engine is rocking all over the place or if they are snapped, the outside wear isnt a problem
plus they are extremely easy to change, just need a jack or an engine hoist and unbolt the 2 nuts,

arent they knackerd when they start cracking
was guna change mine cause one of thems a bit like the photo

cool bananas sound easy enough to do em..

heres the parts, got some from a local supplier (veales) and the rest from schmiedmann.. should keep me busy for the weekend!

some pics from today

some messy wiring



not sure what this is meant to connect to, it comes from the ignition module over near the fuse box



another mysterious cable with nothing attached to it..



some AC wiring, theres another cable with nothing attached to it you can see in front of the brake booster



other pics, the coolant was pretty clean and the inside of the radiator seems clean

today tested my spirit, but i shone through! the hardest part was getting the new water pump in lining the bolts up, i thought i would be able to put the tensioning spring in after fitting the pump... i was wrong! that spring was harder to get in than your index finger on your first date with a 16 year old!

i put the new pump in then realised the spring had to go in first, not having a set of vice grips i had to improvize as you'll see below got there in the end! now i just need to get a torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts etc... still a way to go.. it was a long day!

old pump



mucky poo hole



wiped clean



new pump standing erect and proud, though i hadnt put the f*cking spring back yet!



this setup ought to hold that little f*cker!



yeah, suck on that!



nice one! next weekend hopefully finish!

pics from today, got a week off work now so can finish tomorrow or next day..... sweet!

Good work, keep those pictures coming, i love seeing a project take shape.

i didn't bother to refit the tensioner when i did the water pump and timing belt on my m20b25 conversion as i had run out of patience by then.

Mind you while doing the conversion I'd discovered that the "specialist" who did the timing belt on my m20b23 had left the tensioner off anyway....so meh.

cheers Varden!

here's some pics from putting it all back together.. i had troubles getting the rad fan to work, the wiring was a bit of a nightmare, but i figured out a solution which i'll explain with some pics hopefully this arvo if i get time to upload them...

ok so i put everything back together and ran the car for a while, amazingly there were no coolant leaks which was a bit of a miracle!
the rad fan would still not operate with the four wires connected to the two temp switches, i fiddled around a bit and found that under the fuse box there was no wire feeding the rad fan fuse which i assumed contributed to it not working. i then had a thought to trace the wire back from the fan resistor that i could see, it went over to a relay, the relay had a 12v feed from over at the fuse box, not exactly sure where from cos its a total mess. long story short when i bridged the two wires from the relay the fan would run. the relay has something to do with the aircon. i removed the four wires from the temp switches, and just ran the two wires from the relay over to the low temp switch, this idea worked a treat! the car ran and heated up, then just as the needle crept over the halfway temp mark the fan kicked in, bloody amazing!! haha then the temp dropped a little under half, then the fan stopped, then it heated up again and the fan started, i was witnessing true magic!! so happy!
so i dont really understand how all the wiring was connected, but have managed to get power to the fan so it runs and is controlled by the low temp switch. good enough for me!

this is the relay with the two wires arrowed, one wire goes to the fan, the other is the 12v feed



this is the 12v supply to the relay, the wire goes from being red, to being yellow with the fuse holder, to being black, not very dodgy at all!!



four wires to the two temp switches, the top brown one got baked to a crisp during my trouble shooting, oops!



de-nosed



this is the wire from the fan resistor that went back to the relay (anyone know what that coil is? additional oil cooler? i havent traced the pipes back to anything just yet)



this was the connection to the relay, that will now go to one side of the temp swith



here we go



and this is the 12v to go to the other side of the temp switch



here it comes



mmm feels so good



now it was time to test, the car is running and slowly warming up



and then it maintains perfect temp with fan cycling on and off! yay!!!!



now all is left is to put bonnet back on and tidy up some wires etc. still would like to take all the AC stuff out but plenty of time for that.

I am about to undertake the replacement of the water pump. Other than the water pump and the gasket which I have, are there any other things to renew while I am around there replacing the water pump? Also, should the bonnet/hood be removed for this job?