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Threw my car in for MOT at kwikfit yesterday (only went there because I left it too late). Failed on a few items..

Rear brake hoses deteriorated - Fine, I have some new braided hoses waiting to be fitted.

Idle speed too fast - Fine, adjustable.

Now the one I don't really agree with.. Nearside sill corroded causing unsafe projection (front to rear). He's chalked out from near the front arch back to the end of the passenger door. However, the sill is solid all the way along, there are two 1" holes at either end on the inner sill where the bead meets the floorpan.

I obviously don't want to replace the whole thing cause it doesn't really need it atm. Can I get the car retested at another MOT station? Or do I have to wait for the 10 days to elapse? Can this corrosion be 'reinterpreted' by a more friendly MOT tester (my regular mechanic, I think he'll be more forgiving than kwikfit) or is this now stored on the central computer and the whole sill has to be replaced?

Any advice would be helpful! Thanks. -J

it wont be marked that the sill needs replacing on the mot list but it will state that it is corroded, simply fill the holes and paint everything shiny new, take it somewhere diferent and nbot quite so official as quickfit and tell them and show them the bits you have done and im sure they will be happy

Just do localized repairs and then re-paint the whole sill. You could even just ask them to check your repair before paying for another test. Any photos of the holes?

No pictures atm I'll try to get some tomorrow. That's good news! I won't go back to shitfit. Can I have a partial retest done at another station or does it have to be a full one from scratch?

have to get a full one if you switch

What i did years ago with one of my old e21`s were i took some filler and filler holes in the floor pan area where needed that failed on and painted masitic nice and smoothly then sprayed underseal around the area as if welding took place and passed, next mot i scrapped the car so it does work!! BUT if your planning to keep it then get it done properly!

J

--ALPINA-- wrote:What i did years ago with one of my old e21`s were i took some filler and filler holes in the floor pan area where needed that failed on and painted masitic nice and smoothly then sprayed underseal around the area as if welding took place and passed, next mot i scrapped the car so it does work!! BUT if your planning to keep it then get it done properly!

J

Alpina is right it should be done properly really. i keep filling holes in my white car but eventually i will have to face the fact that it needs to be done properly

Right, had a proper poke about today and it looked like someone bodged with filler all the way along the inner sill in the past. The stuff was set so hard it looked like a seam but a screwdriver proved that wrong. Going in for emergency welding on Tuesday! Means my bank holiday is gonna be spent removing seats and carpet. Yay.

Anyhow, once the welding is done, what do you guys reckon to rustproofing? I've heard good (and bad!) things about this 'Before n After' guy in Rugby. I think he esentially blasts off the surface rust underneath, applies some sort of inhibitor and then finishes with a layer of waxoyl and fills the cavities in. Costs like £400 but if it stops rust eating my baby I'd be willing to pay it..

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/index.html

theres a place in donny that might be easier for you and i hear that they do a great job too,

http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/

I found that one after I posted the other. Website looks more pro and it looks like they charge half the price for the same thing. Thanks Nas!

Might post a thread see if anyone has any experience with rustproofing..

waxoyl is old and rubbish. get someone who uses (or tell them to use) all things made by Bilt Hamber. the best is rust proofing by a mile.

waxoyl will prevent rust, if there's a little there already, it can spread. bilt hamber dynax s50 (or dynax UB) will not only last longer, give better protection, it also stops present rust spreading. if you want a proper job that is....

After further research, I think I'm actually going to ask them to apply dinatrol. An investigative article in Practical Classics found it to be the superior product by miles. AFAIK waxoyl can prevent/slow creep - but only if it is applied properly and regularly.

I'll read up on Bilt Hamber. Have you used it?

Reck wrote:Right, had a proper poke about today and it looked like someone bodged with filler all the way along the inner sill in the past. The stuff was set so hard it looked like a seam but a screwdriver proved that wrong. Going in for emergency welding on Tuesday! Means my bank holiday is gonna be spent removing seats and carpet. Yay.

Anyhow, once the welding is done, what do you guys reckon to rustproofing? I've heard good (and bad!) things about this 'Before n After' guy in Rugby. I think he esentially blasts off the surface rust underneath, applies some sort of inhibitor and then finishes with a layer of waxoyl and fills the cavities in. Costs like £400 but if it stops rust eating my baby I'd be willing to pay it..

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/index.html

Slap some new sills on yer car, we`ve all done it appart from tommi, cos hes a filler man, soon he will be driving a car entirely made of filler and chicken wire the way hes going (sorry i had to throw that in) but on the serious side if its a car you know you want to keep, do it once and for all, and them pump wax in the cavity, i.e. rust proof and another 30 years you will be happy..... stripping a car is fun do all in a couple of hours and go thru the chassis and mark the parts for welding.


J

I probably will, just need to get the money together first. Discovered a couple of pretty holes on the rear arches aswell. Looks like the the passenger footwell has already been patched once. Still solid but when I lifted up the liner underneath the carpet it was sopping wet?!

Where can I get hold of new sills in the UK?

Bit of patching and some new brake pipes. Passed.