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I have achieved a huge amount since the car arrived and am just starting to enjoy driving her. Today, the owner of a good local indie shop reset my valve clearances - I left it with him overnight so that he could do the job on a cold block. He said the engine was solid, but that I had some vaccuum leaks which needed sorting. $60 for an hours labour, how cheap is that?

Drove away, all I can hear now is the exhaust and the engine, but no valves - said it would be good for at least 15K.

As some would know, I did the front arms, tie rods and stole the struts from my donor car, after cutting a link from the stock springs. Today, my pack has arrived from Albrecht at Walloth and Nesch - four new Bilstein cartridges, mounts, bushes and more. I know how to change over the front and get things all settled (going to lop another link from the front springs), but the rear, with its integrated spring, I've never tackled. Done e36s, but not this.

I've searched for a DIY on the rears, to no avail. Would appreciate it if someone can point me in the right direction re changing over the rear shocks.

regards Chris

oh yes - Worst job I've tackled? - putting in a new chrome surround on the front screen - about 2.5 hours, an inch at a time using a flat blade screw driver and my thumbs were stuffed for two days.... Still have the back screen to do. I know the glass guys have a tool for this, but wouldn't know were to get one. Still have the back screen to do...

The window chrome yeah they do have a special tool for that, can't find a picture of one but the 2nd will take less time doing it the same way, pushing in one side and pulling the rubber using a wide screwdriver to get the other side in. 45 minutes should be possible.

As for the shocks, there's not much tension on the rear springs so easy job with no clamps required. Undo the top nuts in the boot (3 each side) and jack up the car, after max 10 inches (with the jack under the diff) you will see that the tops come loose that's enough. Remove bottom end bolt and you can take the damper and spring pack away. Usually you can already feel there's hardly any tension so you can just undo the top damper bolt while pressing the top slightly and take the top and spring off. Rear top mount with bushing will prolly be shot so replace that one, not too expensive either. With the low pre-tension, make sure not too set the damper heigth too low or you'll end up with a rattling spring.

For the front the top mounts may have some freeplay on the bearing, check for freeplay with the top still on but the spring compressed. Any freeplay will result in a front end knock after refitting so you may need to replace the top mounts at the front as well and sadly these aren't that cheap but you wouldn't want any vibrations or knocking sounds so better make sure it's all ready for many years again. For the fronts: make sure to refit with the rings in the exact same order or the bearing won't be running free resulting in heavy steering and a failing top mount. I've seen dealers do that the wrong way so mistakes are easily made I guess!

Good luck, pictures of the work are always welcome!

thanks Jeroen - guilty as charged re pics will try to do better.

OK, so easy job at rear. I have got two new Merhl top mounts and new rubber perches and Bilstein shock clamps, so should be good. Had a couple of spring compressor failures last time, so bit shy, but have some new ones and sons will help.

One final Q - how the hell do you torq the front bearings. I took them off by hand, but ended up applying quite a bit of pressure putting the new ones on - all by feel really. What is the correct procedure - I don't have a torq wrench but am good at estimating..

regards Chris