bmwe21.net forums

Hello all,

newbie here and my apologies if this has already been spoken about before.

I've just bought a 323i (1983 e21) and had a good start with a clean running and well performing car. Until now.

I took my car to work on nights last night, had a great drive (50kms) mostly around 100kmh and got to work without a hitch. Then I came to move my car and it would just not start. It turns over beautifully just doesn't fire (so sounds like fuel or spak issue). It wouldn't start hot and wouldn't start cold this morning.

I wondered if this is a common problem and whether any of you more experienced e21'ers have any pointers re fuel cut off valves etc etc.

# Drive to work was flawless, stopped engine, won't re-start #

I've been working on the car this weekend and changed the thermostat, oil pressure switch, rear shocks, diff oil and trans oil as well as a brake service, but don't suppose any of that is linked?

Many thanks

Mark

As you already siad it could be a ignition or fuelproblem.

* Start with the basics so check for spark first.
* Is the fuelpump working etc etc.

can you hear the fuel pump buzzing near the rear right wheel?

Spin the fuse in it's holder.

e21-Mark wrote:Spin the fuse in it's holder.

which fuse is this please? (sorry if that sounds really dumb, i've only had the car a week, but all fuses in fusebox look ok)

cheers

johne21 wrote:can you hear the fuel pump buzzing near the rear right wheel?

thanks, will try this, does the ignition need to be on "ign lights" or engine actually turning over when I listen for this?

cookster wrote:

e21-Mark wrote:Spin the fuse in it's holder.

which fuse is this please? (sorry if that sounds really dumb, i've only had the car a week, but all fuses in fusebox look ok)

cheers

Corrosion may give a bad connection and it's always good to give 'em all a spin but the diagram is here on the website:
http://www.bmwe21.net/?page_id=130

Where are you based Mark?

These bullet type fuses get damp and corrode. They look fine but actually lose their connection. The first thing you realise is that you lose wipers, fuel pump or whatever. Spinning them is usually enough to make the connection again or clean properly for a longer lasting repair. Seeing as your car was fine before, it seems likely the fuel pump fuse has corroded. Bottom corner fuse from memory?

Memory of a goldfish though tbh.

Right O, just back home after nightshift now (wife picked me up).

I'll try the fuse first (simplest), then test for a spark and if all that's good I'll start of the fuel supply.

Thanks all for your help, I'll let you know how I go.
I'll probably pop back to work this afternoon after some sleep to have a play with the car.

I am in VIC Australia, East of Melbourne.

Cheers
Mark

cookster wrote: I am in VIC Australia, East of Melbourne.

Was gonna offer to take a look. Bit far though.

Depends on who pays for the airfare well let's try to help from a distance then!

Another thing worth checking is the fuel pump relay. Check to see that it is properly installed. I once drove over 75kms without a hitch and then my engine kept dying. The problem was a loose fuel pump relay.

Update 1#

Just been to have a quick look and:

The fuse appears to be ok, and a quick fuse swap makes no difference.

Jumped the fuel pump relay by the fusebox and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing at the rear o/s of the car.

Taken a HT lead and plug out and tested for a spark........and........there is a spark, but it was barely visible, so I am guessing it is too weak a spark. The car was still cranking over ok. I think under normal conditions the spark should be pretty strong?

......so, I am guessing it is either a dodgy ignition coil, or a distributor issue, probably (and hopefully the former as they're likely to be cheaper)

What I didn't check and which i'll check tomorrow is whether there is fuel delivery to jetronic system.


Your thoughts on all this please

cheers
Mark

Of course you should have a strong spark so that may be your issue. Are your spark plugs wet from fuel? In that case you know for sure the first place to look if the ignition system. I'd leave the spark plugs out for a while so excess fuel from all starting attempts can evaporate, and it give you a chance to check for differences in color between spark plugs.

So best guess atm is ignition issues, common failures:
- leads bad/worn/corroded connectors
- rotor arm and dizzy cap worn, a sandpaper rub may be enough
- bad power to coil, bad coul, bad connection on coil

The ignition dizzy itself as well as the ignition control module can also cause problems but usually then there's no spark at all.

Jeroen wrote:Of course you should have a strong spark so that may be your issue. Are your spark plugs wet from fuel? In that case you know for sure the first place to look if the ignition system. I'd leave the spark plugs out for a while so excess fuel from all starting attempts can evaporate, and it give you a chance to check for differences in color between spark plugs.

So best guess atm is ignition issues, common failures:
- leads bad/worn/corroded connectors
- rotor arm and dizzy cap worn, a sandpaper rub may be enough
- bad power to coil, bad coul, bad connection on coil

The ignition dizzy itself as well as the ignition control module can also cause problems but usually then there's no spark at all.

Thanks Jeroen
The spark plug I took out wasn't wet so I'll have another look tomorrow and take my multi-meter to see what voltage is going to the coil. I'm reluctant at the moment to delve into the dizzy as its tucked well down and not that easy to get to.
cheers
Mark