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Being from E30s i have no clue about 21 engine swaps. All i know is my m10 is running like crap and I think 4 cylinders are Sh1t

Theyr not torquey slow and the sound annoys me.

I was thinking maybe sticking an M20/b20 in it. What are the common swaps and how much money do they cost and how easy/hard are they?

If you're going to fit an m20 you may as well go 2.5 rather than 2.0. It's defo the easiest/cheapest route to some proper grunt. You just need 323 mounts, rad, prop & box.

Some proper brakes would be good too.

DrJim did his Baur recently and can advise I'm sure.

+1 go for a decent displacement. M20B20 is just as much work as a M20B25 but lacks power and fuel economy, same story with M50 engines

e21-Mark wrote:If you're going to fit an m20 you may as well go 2.5 rather than 2.0. It's defo the easiest/cheapest route to some proper grunt. You just need 323 mounts, rad, prop & box.

Some proper brakes would be good too.

DrJim did his Baur recently and can advise I'm sure.

As you're starting with a 4 pot, you'll need a 6 pot subframe and a fuel return line adding and the fuel injection pump etc as well as the above.
But well worth doing.


Ben

Already!!

Haha yeah already, already at the end of my wit with the way the m10 works and delivers its power. It doesnt even look or sound nice in my opinion, anyway slating aside thank you for the words.


Sub Frame - 323i one...how much is this likely to set me back?

Brakes - Upgraded brakes, which to use? Do i use 323i brakes, do i need to convert to brakes off a different car??

Prop shaft - Iv read I need to get a prop shaft shortened?

m20b25 engine
e21 m20 gearbox (can be 320 / 323i) you will need the prop too.
subframe from any 6 cylinder e21
general wiring and stuff
intank fuel pump from a e30 318is will work or a 323i external pump and accumulator can be used.
extra fuel line - can be plastic / copper / steel (originals available from dealer)
6 cyl rev counter
you will also need to change the ratio of your diff to a 3.45 unless you want the added acceleration froma 3.91.
e21 m20 radiator
new clutch and beefier brakes

323i front brakes with decent pads are fine, I did a trackday in the Baur with the ds2500 pads that used to be in the slug.

Drums at the back are also fine for most use.

Add to the list manifold. You can connect up to the 316 exhaust if you don't want to go to twins at the rear - I did but wish I'd left it with a single.

M10's are good if bored out, balanced, rebuilt with wilder cam and throttle bodies, converted to coilpacks/efi, attached to a lightened flywheel and a stripped out track car, then thrashed to 7k rpm all the time. But even I would put an M20b25 in the slug for more power, never mind an M52B28!

Lads who are advising, you haven't asked how old Verde is yet

Does it matter?

It will for insurance purposes Jim.

If he can't afford the insurance he can't do a swap, but he asked about swaps not insurance quotes for engine swaps.

You also need to realise current funds wouldnt allow a swap for like a year anyway. I would be looking to accumulate parts then do it next year. When Id be 21 and insurance drops even further

concentrate on getting the shell minted.

Being a daily driver the shell is the least of my worries. There is very little rust and with the engine giving a whooping MPG figure between 9 and about 18 on a good day, getting that fixed is top priority at the moment.