bmwe21.net forums

Mine are both in need of repair, holed and seams blistering appart.
Are there any options for factory replacements??
Wallothnesch want 960 euro's plus delivery for the pair!!

I could mould carbon kevlar units for less than that. If there are no good sources, composite tanks may be my next how to guide!

I can imagine more people would be interested, BMW parts prices are through the roof these days

A new one (right side) is avalible for sale here in Denmark. Price is 25€.

Let me know if I should help you out with shipping:

http://www.dba.dk/andre-reservedele-bmw ... 003329022/

Get it anyway, and the mirrors too!

I have thought about this

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-basic-car- ... r-kit.html

And after market alloy tanks would be good.

I have seen that, and many reviews look good, but tbh how long will a tank last if it is already pinholed and the metal is thin? to me it is used as a last resort until it can be fixed properly,like rad weld.

I am going to phone pro alloy for a quote to replace the oem tanks, i dont want a tank in the boot.
I used one of their intercoolers, it was top notch.

I know a guy from another forum who can make an exact replica tank, asked him a while back when Nas needed a tank, he needed dimensions etc to quote. Happy to ask him again or http://www.langysrodshop.co.uk/ if you have tanks out of the car then sending them would be the way forward, he might even make a template to do more - the ones in my Baur are bulging round the seams and leak a bit when full (breather hoses etc all new), so may be up for new tanks next year myself.

I got a second hand tank and it was fine. I took it back to bare metal. Used the tank repair system as precaution.

If you have pin holes then don't bother. Get some custom made. They have to he fairly exact to the originals though.

Failing that get a mk2 escort rally fuel tank and chop an inch off the side of it and slide it into the back of the boot.

just did some costings on compostie tanks:

Mould materials to make 4 halfs (complete set)good for around 1000 full sets: £280

Tank material costs: polyester resin, 1 layer black carbon/kevlar hybrid cloth180g, 2 further layers std carbon/kevlar cloth 228g, reinforced mounting tabs modified to install rubber isolators, various alloy pipe fittings: £270

plus your own time and satisfaction of a DIY project.

POR 15 tank sealer as a precaution £30, the composite supplier did comment that ethanol in modern fuels is what can degrade the polyester resin, so he cannot "guarantee" the resin but also said every one who makes tanks uses this one!

Vinylester resin may be a better option?

weight of std tanks: slave tank 3.9kg main tank with pump 4.5kg.
Composite tanks work out to around 6kg for the pair so you could save 2kg in weight if you really wanted to, and keep the CofG lower in the car and between the axles.

Is it worth it???

Going to try to get some costs from langy's rod shop for oem replacement alloy tanks, just need to email some pics and sizes for worst case costing to start with.
possibly set up a jig if there is enough interest for a group buy.

The same Langley from MIG welding forum.

I think it's worth it if you need new tanks and don't want to pay silly money for the OE ones. I was lucky with mine and did the same treatment thing as Nas. Had they been made of lace though, I'd have preferred something new given the choice..

In alloy I think copy the early 1 part tank would be better, easier to make thus cheaper. Also add future provision for a stock fuel pump on the other saddle of the tank to pump back to the orginal sender/pump which would sit in a swirl pot housing, good upgrade for track cars with out extra external plumbing.

pandemonium001 wrote:just did some costings on compostie tanks:

Is it worth it???

well. theres a pair on ebay for £100 that I saw.. If you got the skill to make them and the patience then that's pretty cool.

I was lucky I already have a brand spanking new drivers side tank fitted by a PO. I think my tanks will be fine for many years after 4 coats of rust bullet and then three coats of black tough paint on each of them.

I only changed my passenger side one cos it had a dent in the bottom. It didn't actually leak but the seam had separated a bit, I suppose that with some lead filling on the seam and some por15 tank treatment for reassurance that tank is serviceable. Do you want it? if you collect its yours for free man - it got a fairly hefty dent in it though, but if you get one of those sliding hammers or dent pullers you can get it out fairly easy.

Nas

I saw the ebay ones, but without close up pics, it was really pot luck and £100 down if they are not any better than what you have.

just got off the phone to pro-alloy, so need to send them some pictures and some sketches of a simplified tank to reduce cost, but they can accomodate pretty much anything.
It may be easier for me to prototype an alloy one to check fitment then get pro alloy or langy's to copy externally and do thier magic on baffles sumps and inspection hatches.

Jason_323i wrote:In alloy I think copy the early 1 part tank would be better, easier to make thus cheaper. Also add future provision for a stock fuel pump on the other saddle of the tank to pump back to the orginal sender/pump which would sit in a swirl pot housing, good upgrade for track cars with out extra external plumbing.

are there 2 different styles of tank for the e21? any pictures of the 1 part tank?

do you mean have twin pump mounts? with a low pressure pump mount on the same inspection hatch as the high pressure pump. LP pump feading an internal swirl pot.
Good idea then you can blank off one or use both according to application or cost.