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Got the crank and pistons in, also the front and rear covers are on with new oil seals, just ordered a new cam belt ant tensioner, fitted the new water pump, so I'm well on the way with the engine build.

1. I don't recall the oil pump having a gasket, is this the case, should there be an O ring or some sealer somewhere?

2. When I removed the sump there was no sign of sealer, just the paper gasket (probably from the factory build). Any views on applying sealer or should I just apply some grease to the paper gasket and hope for the best?

The oil pump doesn't have a gasket.

Does anyone have a view on the sump gasket, should I use sealer?

Just standard gasket from the dealer. Just a few dollar. number 11131730234

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/128393 ... 31730234G/

I woudn't advise reusing gasket, new one about £12 from W &N, I also used the best gasket sealer i could find, orange coloured shell oils product, cant recall its name. If ordering new gasket might be worth checking condition of the two thrust washers on distributor to oil pump shaft, these get very brittle with age, so you dont need to pay twice for carriage.

I was using a new gasket anyway and Blue Hylomar has been suggested.

The torque figure for the bolts is really low and my torque wrench wont go that low. They are only 10mm so I've ordered a low range 1/4 inch torque wrench

Yesterday I finally installed the engine and gearbox, a defining moment in the rebuild. Unfortunately I have discovered that the sump gasket is leaking!
There is a weep near the rear and I'm going to have to take it off and reseal.
When I owned my 320 I punctured the sump and cracked the oil pump on a rock and had to remove the sump which I did with the engine still in the car, the only problem is that was in 1986 and I cant remember how I did it? I should remember as it was day one of BMW ownership.
So I have 3 questions:
1. How do I remove the sump without removing the engine again?
2. How do I make sure it doesn't leak this time? I have a spare sump which I'm going to use to rule out distortion of the sump and of course another new gasket, but which sealer?
3. Am I the oldest member on the forum?

1) i think you'll have to lift the engine a little to make room between the engine and subframe.
2) the manual saids you'll have to apply sealand at the 4 corners before placing the sump, curil k2 or atmosit.
3) don't know your age, so can't say anything about that. I'm at least 10 years older as my car is.

Thanks for that,looks like my job for next week!
I'm 21 years older than my car and I remember going with my Father to the BMW dealer to buy a new e21.

Haha BertjeConti is right you need to raise the engine by abt an inch, then it should be ok to remove. Usually the original cork dealer gasket and some extra sealant is fine.

While I had my oil pan off last time I noticed that most of the bolt-holes had been dimpled in a bit by over-tightening in the past.

So, before reinstalling, I gently flattened each hole with a plastic hammer while supporting from underneath with a piece of wood.

FWIW, I don't use any sealer on mine (cork) except at the four spots where it crosses the front and back covers, except a few dabs to keep it in place while sliding the pan back on; with no leaks yet in several thousand miles.

Lastly, I used some blue thread-locker on each bolt, since they hardly have any torque on them, and it may seem obvious, but I started all of them before tightening any.