Replacing 320 into 323i

[Atle_323i]

Does anyone know if it is a straight swap from 320 carburetor to 323i, using a 323i donor car.

I´m thinking about buying a 320 which might have a good condition body, and dismantle my 323i and use the engine and all parts from my 323i to make the 320 into a 323i.

The 320 is a 82 model and my 323i is a 79 model.

Anyone done a swap like this?

[uwbuurman]

Well, to do that, it is not just swapping the engine 323i has a second chassisbar under the trunkfloor, hence the second tailpipe.

It has a different fuelsender/pickup in the tank and an extra fuelline, the returnline. And it as a fuelpumpunit just behind the right right rear wheel, don't know wheter those brackets are there on de 320/6 floor. Pump is electric, so you'll need the 323i wire harnass to that pump and ofcourse the engine 323i engine wire harnass. The 320/6 diff can stay on the car, but that is 3.64, while the 323i diff is 3.45. If you want to bolt that on, you'll need to switch the odometer also.

The last thing I can think of is that a 320/6 has brake drums at the rear where the 323i has discs all around.

If you have the 323i donor next to that 320/6 it is not to big a job, depending on your skills

[Atle_323i]

Well, to do that, it is not just swapping the engine 323i has a second chassisbar under the trunkfloor, hence the second tailpipe.

It has a different fuelsender/pickup in the tank and an extra fuelline, the returnline. And it as a fuelpumpunit just behind the right right rear wheel, don't know wheter those brackets are there on de 320/6 floor. Pump is electric, so you'll need the 323i wire harnass to that pump and ofcourse the engine 323i engine wire harnass. The 320/6 diff can stay on the car, but that is 3.64, while the 323i diff is 3.45. If you want to bolt that on, you'll need to switch the odometer also.

The last thing I can think of is that a 320/6 has brake drums at the rear where the 323i has discs all around.

If you have the 323i donor next to that 320/6 it is not to big a job, depending on your skills

I know about the body part difference, and the exhaust system on right side has to made custom, which should be doable.
The fuel system should be no problem, I got a complete fuel line with return, fuel pump, and bracket all brand new.
The 323i wire harnass is just a dismantle and mouting job, switch from my 323i into the 320.
And my 323i engine is overhauled, and should be ok.

Well so with some patience and trying and failing, it should all turn out ok.

Just need to buy the 320... first I need to have an inspection on it, to make sure the car is the right condition. Seller says it´s refurbished 3 years ago. And is 100% rust free... still I doubt it´s rust free.I suspect the car is just repainted and with minor parts replaced to make the car work / and look ok.

[uwbuurman]

There is no, I repeat no, rust free e21. But there are hard ones, good ones. Hope you'll find that needle in the haystack

Just take the exhaust mount/body part of the 323i and weld it on the 320/6

[Atle_323i]

There is no, I repeat no, rust free e21. But there are hard ones, good ones. Hope you'll find that needle in the haystack

Just take the exhaust mount/body part of the 323i and weld it on the 320/6

I know there is no rust free E21. But there is a hope the car I have found is in better shape than my current 323i. Which is worse than hoped for. But I need to check the regular rust places and see what state the car is in. And buying new body parts is not possible due to out of stock. And when BMW or someone else reproduce new parts is unknown.

Thanks for info.

[e21Keith]

From memory I found that on the '82 318 and 323i the main wiring loom is the same, all the cables were already there for the fuel pump as was the wire for the luggage compartment lamp (just not fitted to 318). The engine wiring loom was plug and play but you have to change the fuse box to get 4 headlights.

The additional chassis leg for the second exhaust and fuel pump bracket need transferring over as does the bracket for the fuel metering unit under the bonnet.

Your 323i donor is '79 so the above may not be totally applicable in your case.

[uwbuurman]

Yeah, it does, because type 1,5 (under carriage type 2, interior type 1) was from september '78 onwards. And indeed 318i (not the 318) has also injection, hence the return fuelline and injection pumpunit.

[Atle_323i]

Well just an update on this

That project is not going to happen. I got pictures from the restoration of the 320, and I got chills down my back when I saw the welding job. I even showed a friend of mine the welding job, and he said, forget the car. We rather weld up your car then.
Which is something I´ll do, I got alot of the body parts needed to get the car back in good condition.
And I got a hold of a 5 speed gearbox with the shaft, so I´ll upgrade from 4 speed, and my engines has been rebuildt, and all clearings has been checked within factory specs, all good to go. Just that welding job left....

[Jeroen]

Well yeah fully agree, with someone else doing the job without your supervision you never know what (other) corners are cut in the process

[uwbuurman]

Hear hear. Great to restore your own e21!!

[Atle_323i]

Change in plans yet again... After alot of thinking, I´ve changed my mind again

The rust welding will take to much time, and after having my 323i sitting in my garage for 3 years waiting for welding job to begin, I´ve run out of patience, so I bought a good condition 318 76 modell, only 92000 km, the rust the previous owner found has been fixed. So this will be my new 323i.
I´ve started the job on tearing down the 323i. All parts that will go onto my 318 will be sandblasted and painted.

But I want to put on lowering springs on the "new" 323i, but I´m having issues choosing how much to lower it.
My 318 has 60/60 - front/rear, which I find very aggressive, and very uncomfortable to drive around with, shocks in front is Spax, and rear is Koni.

Anyone got pictures of E21 with 60/40? I´ve even been thinking about H&R 35/35 to make the car more comfy... I´m not 18 anymore

[Jeroen]

I'd go for Eibach springs, even more comfy than H&R's, combined with Bilstein shocks. This set should also lower by abt 30mm which helps keeping your oil pan intact.

[Atle_323i]

I'd go for Eibach springs, even more comfy than H&R's, combined with Bilstein shocks. This set should also lower by abt 30mm which helps keeping your oil pan intact.

I can´t find E21 specific model, so I assume you use E30. But if the TUV papers is for E30, I might get into trouble when having the car for inspection, as I have get the car inspected to get the lower kit in registrations.

Any thoughts about this?

[Jeroen]

E30 does not fit iirc. These are the ones, but you may want to check if these come with an ABE
https://eibach.verlagings-veren.nl/cont ... 2_E21.html

[Atle_323i]

E30 does not fit iirc. These are the ones, but you may want to check if these come with an ABE
https://eibach.verlagings-veren.nl/cont ... 2_E21.html

Doesn´t ship to Norway