Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

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yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

Okay so I just tested the gearbox and I can shift into any gear - that points toward the fork being depressed without the clutch being depressed.

So, does that mean?

1) Pin is too long / wrong part?
2) Pin is not installed correctly?
3) Other issue?
4) Can I just unscrew the slave cylinder a bit to adjust the depth?

Thanks!


yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

The (first) slave seems to be a bit longer than the original, but not by a lot. Not sure if maybe I could have the wrong part number? Everything else looks similar.

Image
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Jeroen
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by Jeroen »

Not an easy issue! A few thoughts:

- changing gears without depressing the clutch is always possible while the engine is off
- difference in length between slaves is minimal, can't be the issue imo
- some resistance felt upon fitting the slave is normal
- as you get the slave's pin to move by operating the master, I'd say hydraulics are ok

So it looks like the fork is somehow stuck indeed, although Ive never encountered this before. This would be worst case scenario as it requires removal of the gearbox, but I hope some others can chime in. You could try if you can move the fork with a screwdriver but I have no idea how much force that requires.
Regards/groeten, Jeroen
yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

You guys were right about going into any gear when the car isn't on (duh!)

I started the car today and the car will not go into any gear - which means the fork is not depressed.

Not sure what to do to troubleshoot from here - any ideas?

Summary:
Clutch pedal is stiff and won't depress with the slave cylinder installed and full of fluid.
Car can't go into gear when the car us running (fork is not depressed).
Master cylinder / clutch pedal depressed when the slave was not full of fluid.

Thanks!
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uwbuurman
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by uwbuurman »

So check if the hold spring on the other side of the fork is in place. You will see two 6 (ish) mm holes with a wire hook comming from the inside of the bellhouse.

If so I would try and put a screwdriver in/on the fork and try to push it forward, or tap it with a hamer. Be gentile, but it's not your girl, so use some force.

If that doesnt move it, than it is my guess that the thrust bearing is gone. You will have to get the complete gearbox off, then. A bitch, but doable.

One more question, why did you change them out in the first place? Trouble shifting?
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yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

Thanks for the reply - I changed them out because on a test drive (to sell it) the clutch pedal lost pressure.

I changed the cylinders because I believed there to be a leak since it was a "sudden" event. And, the slave was bone dry so I believe there was a leak. However, the person test driving it kinda forced it into gear to get back home - could that have caused damage to the hook or throw out bearing?
yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

Got under the car to do some more troublehsooting.

The pins on the fork look to be in tact.

Image

I pumped the clutch with the slave not installed (but hydraulics hooked up) and the clutch felt right and the slave seemed to move (not sure how to upload video).

The interesting thing I found is regarding he clutch fork.
- I was able to move around quite a bit - it had slack both upward and backward as well as side to side.
- It had oil on it so it stuck to my finger and I could pull it back and then push it forward with my hand. I'm not sure how much movement is normal, if any. But I'd say at least 1/8 to 1/4 inch of movement.

That's all I got for now, does this point toward a throw out bearing issue?

Thanks!
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uwbuurman
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by uwbuurman »

I still think it is a problem with the slave cilinder, when fitted. Wether it's not fitted correct or it just doesn't fit or in fact it is ruined, so it doesn't move under pressure, I don't know. But in my mind, when that fork moved and before changing it was able to shift, what are the odds that the bearing
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1980 BMW 528i maior restitutio
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yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

I totally agree, why would the clutch fork break after pressure loss? But, don't know where to go from here.

I had this problem with 2 slave cylinders - I'm clearly missing something but I don't know what.

Is there a way to isolate and validate it's something with the slave?

Really appreciate the help.
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uwbuurman
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by uwbuurman »

Are you able to force the fork in for lets say half an inch or a bit more? With a pin or screwdriver or anything?
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1978 BMW 323i
1980 BMW 528i maior restitutio
1987 BMW 325iA cabriolet
2006 BMW 320d touring High Executive
2015 BMW 320dA touring xDrive High Executive ///Msport
yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

I pushed it with a socket extender but the angle is pretty hard to get much leverage on - a mechanic told me that he can't push it with all his strength.

I could push it with my fingers and it felt very sloppy, but that may be normal, not sure.

I can go back and try to get more leverage / hit with a hammer to see if I get movement. It moves a lot with very little pressure with the finger but clearly not into position.

Have you been able to move the fork during a test? I'm trying to understand the amount of force required.

Thanks!
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uwbuurman
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by uwbuurman »

Very simple, you won't be able to push it by hand with a rod, all te way for the clutch to disengage. Like the oldtimer said. The first inch it will go and is will be sloppy. There is a fair amount of play on that fork. But half an inch or so it should go. And if that's the case it should go with the slave.

I would not suggest smashing with a hammer. Pushing , not slamming.
It's the man next door!

1978 BMW 323i
1980 BMW 528i maior restitutio
1987 BMW 325iA cabriolet
2006 BMW 320d touring High Executive
2015 BMW 320dA touring xDrive High Executive ///Msport
yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

Okay gotchat, yea it definitely goes about 1/4 - 1/2 inch just with finger pressure. Would you say that confirms that the throw out bearing is not "sized?"

Thanks!
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uwbuurman
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by uwbuurman »

Not without any doubt, but a fairly good hint that it is loose. When fitting the slave, there is some tension. Can you push it by hand all the way in its place? With nuts screwed on, is it tight to the box? You have to stick it in straight. Tilted will cause troubles.

I would say, good slave on it, starting the engine and step on the clutchpedal. What could go wrong, that's not f*cked up already?
It's the man next door!

1978 BMW 323i
1980 BMW 528i maior restitutio
1987 BMW 325iA cabriolet
2006 BMW 320d touring High Executive
2015 BMW 320dA touring xDrive High Executive ///Msport
yacob555
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Re: Clutch Won’t Depress After Master & Slave Replacement

Post by yacob555 »

Appreciate it.

When installing the slave there is definitely a lot of tension, it took some effort to get the slave onto the bolts and without screwing one in, the slave was pushed off of the bolts from that tension.

I have installed the slave fully positioned and pressed the clutch, it just doesn't depress. Should I jam the clutch hard? It's going to take a lot of pressure. I agree, what can go wrong? I just don't know that it'll fix or tell us much.

I believed I put it on straight put it's possible the fork was tilted? Not sure that would cause a hard pedal, though.
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