bmwe21.net forums

I came from Italy and i've a 320is with 55.000 km
can help me?

watch here....



What's this?

which connector is this ?

Thanks Everyone!!
bye[/img]

Welcome here!

I can make sure tonight and have a look at my own car, but it's either the connector for the power to the injectors (most likely) or to the idle control valve.

Any problems?

Jeroen wrote:Welcome here!

I can make sure tonight and have a look at my own car, but it's either the connector for the power to the injectors (most likely) or to the idle control valve.

Any problems?

Hi Jeroen, thanks..
I'M Italian and live in Rome.
The answer has been given me from a passionate customer of the forum "bmwe30 mpower" in which i'm registered.
the URL is http://bmwe30mpower.too.it. The connector is in fact the connector of idle control valve.
My question is for pure curious,
but i've many questions for this beautifulst forum.

For example:
When my engine is cold (40celsius), the idle rpms are around at 750/800 rpm

When it catches up 90 celsius (water termometer) is 900 rpm ...


I think ...
idle of my 320is it's good but a owner of m3 evo, also of bmw 320is talk.... to me "my motor makes noise of hisses in aspiration like if I have to change the intake manifold gasket".

I do not listen to this I heared and
idle it is stable.
The CO screw in my AFM is totally clockwise turned at end..I dont'know the emissions but the idle is very stable..instead if I turn anticlockwise the AFM screw by 2 turn above,, the idle running slowly and it is'n very stable...
Your car, for example, how much anticlockwise turns have your screw into the AFM (the screw for regulating CO emissions...)

My bmw goes well. I would want to know if it's a way in order to try too much aspiration air from intake manifold gasket?
I wouldn't pierce the pistons to high rpm.:-/(
Excuse me for English but I've written very simple possibile.

Thanks !
Giuseppe

Giuseppe,

mpower76 wrote:The connector is in fact the connector of idle control valve.

Now I got the chance to check it, that's right.

mpower76 wrote: http://bmwe30mpower.too.it

That is a nice website, already discovered it quite a while ago.

mpower76 wrote: When my engine is cold (40celsius), the idle rpms are around at 750/800 rpm
When it catches up 90 celsius (water termometer) is 900 rpm ...

The CO screw in my AFM is totally clockwise turned at end..
...
My bmw goes well. I would want to know if it's a way in order to try too much aspiration air from intake manifold gasket?
I wouldn't pierce the pistons to high rpm.:-/(

Sounds like either a vacuum problem like the hoses to the idle control valve, a idle control valve that is not working but yes, could very well be a vacuum leak along the intake gaskets. Wanna do a test... do a cold start and spray some stuff on the gaskets, WD40 would be good but carb cleaner would be ideal. If the engine responds, the gaskets are up for replacement.
At least these thoughts are in line with the fact that you have set your air/fuel meter at it's richest. If it runs best that way, this means you're picking up air after that meter, could therefor be anything in the intake, also the large rubber bellows between AFM and air collector.
Mind you... your engine is currently running too lean. Since you don't know HOW lean, yes there's a risk of frying the engine... so be careful and do some tests and checks asap.

mpower76 wrote: Your car, for example, how much anticlockwise turns have your screw into the AFM (the screw for regulating CO emissions...)

No idea really. My AFM is adjusted in every possible way to obtain the best possible result and the mixture screw I only use for fine tuning.

If you need more info or have more questions.. go ahead! At least let me wish you good luck... after solving that leak, your engine will be stronger, so you'll be very happy in the end!

>If you need more info or have more questions.. go ahead! At >least let me wish you good luck... after solving that leak, your engine >will be stronger, so you'll be very happy in the end!

Thank Jeroen...

For general maintenance just now have unscrewed the the 4 "intake
vacum" regolation screw that are very black and dirty.
I cleaned up all, screwed clockwise completely, also made 3/4 of turn anticlockwise for each but my carburetor syncronizer don't have the
millibar scale

However my engine's idle sound is very good with my personal regulation

From Bmw m3 e30 Koala Motorsport Manual

"Connect a manometer to each vacuum tap on the manifold. Use a 4 gauge setup if available. Take note of all four values, which must be in the range of 300 ± 50 mbar.
For proper intake vacuum synchronization, all single throttle plates have to be adjusted by turning the individual bypass screws (under yellow or blue caps) within ± 5 mbar of the average vacuum (add up all 4 values and divide by four, this will give the average vacuum)."


I must buy a manometer with mbar scale...!

Best Regards..

Giuseppe

Yep I'd try to get to 300mBar +/- 5mBar when possible, it is a must to have a good manometer. But keep in mind that the differences between cilinders are more important than reaching that actual 300mBar.

Performed the spraying around the intake gaskets yet?

Jeroen wrote:Yep I'd try to get to 300mBar +/- 5mBar when possible, it is a must to have a good manometer. But keep in mind that the differences between cilinders are more important than reaching that actual 300mBar.

Performed the spraying around the intake gaskets yet?

No, I' don't still performed the spraying around the intake gasket..

Fortunately the regulation of the idle does not influence high rpm, it's true?

but making some considerations the misuration with manometer would have a measumerent error for a hypothetical intake manifold gasket leaking...
..leaking is approximately proporzional to the number of engine's rpms


I conclude saying that manometer pointers (with gearbox in neutral position and engine started and acceleratiing ) they don't go up togheter it's possible ipotetical leaking problem or not?

what to think about this ?

However I must still buy much equipment and I don't know where to buy a gauge (or manometer) in glycerin bath in my local dealers. it is necessary one manometer or 4 manometer ?

day after day my English will improve?
Best Regards,

Giuseppe

Giuseppe,

As far as I know a leak after the throttle bodies cannot bring much influence.

Regarding the meters... the ones are the best: www.carbtune.com

But there are other options like the gauge type manometers. The cheapest option is probably to visit your local motorbike shop as these meters are often used for bike carbs. They probably have a set of 4 ready waiting for you. A set of 4 is much easier to use because then you can monitor all 4 cilinders at the same time... and they influence each other.

We'll evaluate your and my english in 6 months from now okay?

clarification please...

about the tps when adjusting idle...

koala motorsport manual says

"Pull of throttle switch plug and bridge pins 2 and 18 in the plug to ensure a closed throttle signal to the Motronic Control Unit."



this post found on

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/e30m3/message ... /7496.html

says:

"with the engine running (at operating temp)and the three wires at the tps jumpered together set the idle to 800RPM with the brass screw.shut engine off while jumpering the switch though and restart(do not use to large a wire to jumper as this may permanently bend the connector's leaving a loose connection),also shut off to remove jumper's.
or you could buy BMW's way overpriced tool # 13 4 010"


How many wires I to shortcut? the 2 and 18 or all?

I precise that my 320is dont've catalitic converter and O2 sensors...

The koala motorsport metod seems very simple but it's based on m3 e30 US perhaps it changes something?

I've found gauges at 9,90€ for unit
Best Regards!

Well I did some research on the shortcuts, also looked at the E34 manuals and came up with shorting all 3 connections, works fine for me.

The gauges... please note that they should give the exact same measures. Even with the matched set of 4 I have, I always do my adjusting on 4 meters at once. After I'm finished, I always turn around the connections (so connecting the gauge that was on cil 1 to cil 4 and so on) to avoid differences between gauges. Most gauges can be adjusted as well.

Good thing that the 320iS has no O2 sensor and a cat except for the 320iS I had parked here earlier this week... to comply with Monaco emission standards the previous owner had equipped it with a M3 Cat version Cat, exhaust manifold, Motronic reprogramming and a new rear silencer as well.. expensive job that's only going to cost you power.

I think the 320iS is one of the very few facelift E30's without a cat!

Jeroen wrote:Well I did some research on the shortcuts, also looked at the E34 manuals and came up with shorting all 3 connections, works fine for me.

The gauges... please note that they should give the exact same measures. Even with the matched set of 4 I have, I always do my adjusting on 4 meters at once. After I'm finished, I always turn around the connections (so connecting the gauge that was on cil 1 to cil 4 and so on) to avoid differences between gauges. Most gauges can be adjusted as well.

Good thing that the 320iS has no O2 sensor and a cat except for the 320iS I had parked here earlier this week... to comply with Monaco emission standards the previous owner had equipped it with a M3 Cat version Cat, exhaust manifold, Motronic reprogramming and a new rear silencer as well.. expensive job that's only going to cost you power.

I think the 320iS is one of the very few facelift E30's without a cat!

Jeroen, I.'ve the problem with intake manifold gasket, with spray carb the idle is up....

I must take particular provisions in order to replace them?

Best regards...
Giuseppe

Look at my mods page... when you're taking apart the intake it is best to replace a few hoses (fuel, coolant, vacuum) and all the o-rings you find as well... just make sure you won't have to take things apart another time. Underneath the intake I'm sure you will find a few veeeery old hoses.

When refitting... make sure the throttle bodies are balanced (sync'd) both mechanically and on vacuum.

Then adjust idle mixture using a unit that measures AT LEAST CO and HC.

Jeroen wrote:Look at my mods page... when you're taking apart the intake it is best to replace a few hoses (fuel, coolant, vacuum) and all the o-rings you find as well... just make sure you won't have to take things apart another time. Underneath the intake I'm sure you will find a few veeeery old hoses.

When refitting... make sure the throttle bodies are balanced (sync'd) both mechanically and on vacuum.

Then adjust idle mixture using a unit that measures AT LEAST CO and HC.

thank you

This is my IS






Best Regards

Looks horrible. I'll give you 1.000 EUR for it

Jeroen wrote:Looks horrible. I'll give you 1.000 EUR for it

It's the wrong camera!