Pads for wilwood powerlites
Pads for wilwood powerlites
Many of us bought wilwood powerlite calipers as aprt of the groupbuy last year. I got the fast road pads with mine.
From the amount of brake dust on my front wheels, the amount the front circuit fluid reservoir has dropped, and a glimpse through the wheel of the pads (not got round to taking a wheel off since Oulton in Feb!), I suspect I have eaten a set of fast road pads in a day.
The options seem to be Wilwood race pads or Mintex.
Anyone have any opinions/advice on what to get as an upgrade. Fast road jobbies stopped the car very well, but appear to have worn out!
Jim
From the amount of brake dust on my front wheels, the amount the front circuit fluid reservoir has dropped, and a glimpse through the wheel of the pads (not got round to taking a wheel off since Oulton in Feb!), I suspect I have eaten a set of fast road pads in a day.
The options seem to be Wilwood race pads or Mintex.
Anyone have any opinions/advice on what to get as an upgrade. Fast road jobbies stopped the car very well, but appear to have worn out!
Jim
1983 316 Pustergrun - track sluG!
1982 Saphirblau Baur 325i
Cars all gone!
1982 Saphirblau Baur 325i
Cars all gone!
My wilwood race pads are lasting well but i've not been on track yet to punish them.
however the dust they produce will not come off the wheels even with t-cut.
i'm be changing back to Mintex before refurbing the wheels.
Ben
however the dust they produce will not come off the wheels even with t-cut.
i'm be changing back to Mintex before refurbing the wheels.
Ben
1982 323i ("Test Mule" - to become an M20 powered track car)
1983 316 (Taiga Thunder - S54 Track car)
1982 635csiA (Another Weldathon)
2004 330d Touring (The Daily Hack / Tow Car / Load lugger)
1974 3.0 csi (The first Weldathon)
1983 316 (Taiga Thunder - S54 Track car)
1982 635csiA (Another Weldathon)
2004 330d Touring (The Daily Hack / Tow Car / Load lugger)
1974 3.0 csi (The first Weldathon)
make sure nothing is sticking first.
Can try the "C" series pads from wilwood, probably the best wear rate. Otherwise, give these guys a call (or email) http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
Ben, the more aggressive pads will strip clear coat and chrome off wheels, so you need to clean them after racing right away otherwise they are known to etch the surface of your wheels. Probably find thats what has happened to you.
Can try the "C" series pads from wilwood, probably the best wear rate. Otherwise, give these guys a call (or email) http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
Ben, the more aggressive pads will strip clear coat and chrome off wheels, so you need to clean them after racing right away otherwise they are known to etch the surface of your wheels. Probably find thats what has happened to you.
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- cdavie2002
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E series isnt bad on the road, not too dusty and wont destroy your wheels. If you get them real hot they will fade though, but shouldnt find that point on the road.
Ive got B series pads for the track which are brilliant, they are much harsher on rotors though and you really, really need to make sure you cool down the pad/rotor when you finish your laps. Do a slow out lap or try and drive around the pit area a bit, allow them to cool down, dont just park the car and walk away.
Ive got B series pads for the track which are brilliant, they are much harsher on rotors though and you really, really need to make sure you cool down the pad/rotor when you finish your laps. Do a slow out lap or try and drive around the pit area a bit, allow them to cool down, dont just park the car and walk away.
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agreed the heat will soak into the caliper thru the pads, not doing the brake fluid any favours. the cooling effect of this on the part of the disc where the pads are may well warp the disc too.Madhatter wrote:really need to make sure you cool down the pad/rotor when you finish your laps. Do a slow out lap or try and drive around the pit area a bit, allow them to cool down, dont just park the car and walk away.
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- pistonheader
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shouldn't polish your car more than a couple of times a yearnas80 wrote:the pads that we got with the calipers in the group buy seem ok to me. I havent had a problem shifting the dust off.. but then i do polish the shit out of my car / give it a wash regular.
usually i just wash and wax mine, polish once a year
use this sealant twice a year, once just before winter hits....it's amazing stuff. it's still on after 6 months through winter, protects the paint really well.....
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/ ... d_355.html
follow up with this wax
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/colli ... d_207.html
and your paint will be very well protected from UV, bird shit and so on, and the water beads really well
damn i'm sad
- pistonheader
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is yours a daily driver murran? if you seal and wax it, it makes cleaning much easier in the future!! but yes, it's a pain in the ass to do. but, mine being a daily, i'd like to keep the paint work nice, until i can afford a bare metal respraymurran wrote:when mine gets dirty i wash it..... gets dirty again i.......... you get the idea!
- e21-Mark
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Try wheel guard from www.spautopia.co.uk - it's excellent stuff. Far better than the usual stuff like RimWax etc. Mention the e21 forum and you might even get a bit of a discount? 
It does warp the rotor, bad thing if you dont have floating calipers because it will highlight the warp/thickness variation, giving you shake in the steering wheel/ pulsating brake pedal.murran wrote:
agreed the heat will soak into the caliper thru the pads, not doing the brake fluid any favours. the cooling effect of this on the part of the disc where the pads are may well warp the disc too.
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Yeah, does look like its bonded to the new paint that was on the wheels.Madhatter wrote:make sure nothing is sticking first.
Can try the "C" series pads from wilwood, probably the best wear rate. Otherwise, give these guys a call (or email) http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
Ben, the more aggressive pads will strip clear coat and chrome off wheels, so you need to clean them after racing right away otherwise they are known to etch the surface of your wheels. Probably find thats what has happened to you.
Using the car regularly on the road at the moment, so cleaning after every journey would be a pita.
Gotta do some real track work to wear them out, then fit less dusty pads. Then I can repaint the wheels.
The last set of EBC yellows I had worked well and the dust was manageable, but you can't get them for powerlite calipers
Looks as if Mintex is the only other option, although they are more expensive.
Ben
1982 323i ("Test Mule" - to become an M20 powered track car)
1983 316 (Taiga Thunder - S54 Track car)
1982 635csiA (Another Weldathon)
2004 330d Touring (The Daily Hack / Tow Car / Load lugger)
1974 3.0 csi (The first Weldathon)
1983 316 (Taiga Thunder - S54 Track car)
1982 635csiA (Another Weldathon)
2004 330d Touring (The Daily Hack / Tow Car / Load lugger)
1974 3.0 csi (The first Weldathon)
