E21 320 M20B27 Running, S/S done, Interior in!

drjim · Post by **drjim** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:11 pm

Coil wire gets power from the same place that tells the ECU to switch on. Check your main relay is working.

retro-bmw · Post by **retro-bmw** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:09 am

drjim wrote:Coil wire gets power from the same place that tells the ECU to switch on. Check your main relay is working.

If you mean the three relays which be on the engine I have already changed them but had the same issue?

drjim · Post by **drjim** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:53 am

Check that there is power getting to the relay first then that it works - connect 12v to it and see if it clicks. As I recall the coil wire and ecu power wire both come off that relay.

murran · Post by **murran** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:45 pm

i think the ecu only clicks the relay in when it sees a crank signal on cranking, same as the fuel pump relay. do you have live to the fuel pump when cranking? this indicates the crank sensor is working and the ecu is reading it correctly.
have you got the crank sensor and cylinder 1 recognition plugs mixed up? they do have the same plugs!

drjim · Post by **drjim** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:59 pm

Is your ECU getting +12V to tell it to switch on, pin 27 on the connector goes to a green wire that also connects to the coil. It gets power from the ignition switch directly rather than through the relays, so if you've not got 12V at the coil you have a wiring fault, either where you've joined things up or where all those wires connect up under the steering column.

retro-bmw · Post by **retro-bmw** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:33 pm

And its ALIVE

Seems one of the wires had a brake, fixed it up and it fires up at the turn of the key and sounds sweet just a bit loud ATM due to only having the 6 branch on.

Next on the list is the Interior change will update with what's taking place with the original interior. Once that's done put the exterior back together as it wont be getting painted as soon as I thought due to other projects and time. So will be a bit of spit and shine to make it look a bit fresher.

murran · Post by **murran** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:22 pm

its running? yay!!!

retro-bmw · Post by **retro-bmw** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:24 am

murran wrote:its running? yay!!!

It is indeed!

Thanks for tips so far guys has been useful.

Now after moving it around the workshop the brakes are a bit of a concern!

What brakes are you guys running on your e21?

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:31 am

Wilwoods, although Volvo 4 pots worked pretty well too

murran · Post by **murran** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:54 pm

working and properly adjusted standard rear drums and 323i fronts with green stuff pads.

retro-bmw · Post by **retro-bmw** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:53 pm

How good would a standard 323i setup be with good pads and disks?

Jeroen · Post by **Jeroen** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:58 pm

at least fair, but overhaul the front calipers!

drjim · Post by **drjim** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:12 pm

Standard 323i setup is fine for medium trackday use with uprated pads (I used ferodo ds2500's), that was on my blue 316 which obviously only had 110hp but was driven enthusiastically. The slug has about 160 bhp and stopped nicely on 323i fronts (again with ds2500's) and DIY rear golf caliper conversion equivalent to the 323i rear discs. Similar power to the 325 but less weight. I upgraded to Wilwoods because I could rather than because I needed to.

You should be fine with 323i setup, unless you are doing trackdays or rallying.

Jim

retro-bmw · Post by **retro-bmw** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:24 pm

drjim wrote:Standard 323i setup is fine for medium trackday use with uprated pads (I used ferodo ds2500's), that was on my blue 316 which obviously only had 110hp but was driven enthusiastically. The slug has about 160 bhp and stopped nicely on 323i fronts (again with ds2500's) and DIY rear golf caliper conversion equivalent to the 323i rear discs. Similar power to the 325 but less weight. I upgraded to Wilwoods because I could rather than because I needed to.

You should be fine with 323i setup, unless you are doing trackdays or rallying.

Jim

Well it wont be used for the track, more of a daily driver. Going to have to do some shopping for disks and pads!

murran · Post by **murran** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:04 pm

id leave the drums but stick some new cyl and shoes on them and make sure the adjusters arnt seized and adjust them properly.
upgrade to 323i calipers/vented discs with some decent fast road pads. green stuff/ferodos drjim mentioned.

people panic about brakes and i dont know why. often going totally over kill.
i mean my old d plate mk2 golf gti i had years ago.... breathed on engine (kent cam audi 2.2 "kv" throttle body 135ishbhp) had standard brakes but with brembo replacement discs/green stuff pads all round. trackday at cadwell park nearly a full hour of hammering round non stop... brakes were solid 100% and i was overtaking mk1 elises and mgf's. i was on one that day.

driving fast round derbyshire in the e21 is no problem on my set up. fast road you can keep the drums just make sure they work and replace the shoes as the linings go hard over time and lose their bite. new fluid etc

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