Front suspension - alignment of "top"

[SileNceR]

I just had another thought, perhaps my replacement radiator support beam is a touch too wide, and is pushing the top of the guards out (and hence twisting the bottom of them inwards, into the wheel travel space just on this side?)

[nas80]

no idea mate, you need to start measuring your car and make sure its still straight.

[SileNceR]

I probably need measurements from others too. I'll try and pick some easy to locate spots to measure if you or someone else are willing to measure theirs to compare?

[nas80]

http://www.smcars.net/attachments/bmw_e ... png.68285/

[SileNceR]

Thanks for that link!

I'm thinking it's less of a suspension alignment issue (especially as the vehicle still tracks straight even at pretty decent speeds) and more of a guard alignment issue.

Basically, if the brace I made to hold the brake servo and to support the radiator is slightly too wide (and I did have to force it in to place) then it may be pushing the top of the guard out at the front and applying a twisting force to the guard in the wheel arch area.

I'll check the measurements (at least the ones that are easy to do without a hoist) and see how that looks too though.

[SileNceR]

Here's how it looks at the moment with the wheel turned slightly to the right

[Jeroen]

You have the right control arms fitted? There's a difference between early and facelift examples, switchover is Oct 78. In fact, by then the complete front geometry changed so if you either have an incorrect crossmember, control arm or sway bay you may run into issues.

[SileNceR]

I haven't changed them, but I suppose it's possible that at some point in the car's life it's had a replacement arm put in? Is there an easy way to tell them apart to look at?

I had to cut and re-weld the swaybar too because of the engine location; I did try and get it all back in line/place before re-welding but perhaps that's the main issue?

[polov8]

With the wheels straight ahead, where in the arch does the wheel sit, fore and aft? I'm wondering one of two things, either the sway bar cutting has meant that the track control arm is being pulled more forward than usual, or the bushes in the track control arm that the sway bar goes into are fitted the wrong way round, which would have the same effect?

[SileNceR]

fore. Could I shim (With washers) between the swaybar and control arm to correct it?

How should the bush look? It's only the LHS so I'll go and compare to the RHS I suppose.



[edit: just compared - here's a video - there's a bit of a difference between the sides in terms of appearance