Stiff throttle after Weber upgrade

[davidvincent]

Hi all

I've recently swapped out a failing Solex carb for a Weber dgas38, and I find the throttle to be excessively heavy/stiff. (Car is 320/6).

I'm assuming that there's some adjustment I can do to the linkages on the carb - anyone have any idea on which sections successfully make a difference? I'd like a smooth acceleration right through the pedal, currently it's quite hard work to pull off nicely etc.

I've checked and there are no issues at the pedal end, if I disconnect the cable in the engine bay the pedal is fine and not getting stuck.

Thanks all!

David

[Jeroen]

Cable not making sharp turns?

[Reck]

As few bends in the cable as possible. Lube up the linkages well.

Try a new accel cable if that doesn't work? They seem to dry out and start sticking after a while.

[Peter V.]

If i am correct the actuall cable has not been changed or need to be adjusted when you change to a weber carb.

You can check if the lever in the corner of the bottomplate is moving easy. Here you have a spring which helps to move the throtle back to it's idle position.

The connection rods can be adjusted but that's it.

[Mucka]

Sorry no help but how does it drive on the weber carb?

[davidvincent]

Thanks everyone.

As Peter suggests, there have been no changes to the routing of the throttle cable, so I'm thinking I need to adjust the linkages on the new carb - I'll have a go and report back

On the whole, the transition to Weber has been a nightmare... In the end I had to take the car to a specialist with a rolling road to have it re-jetted and tuned again... No wonder I couldn't make it tick over!

Hand on heart, I may still revert to Solex if I can ever find a nos one, I think that when some folks report how much better the Weber's are, they might be just comparing an old knackered carb to a new and freshly tuned one. The Weber is very basic, purely mechanical... And I do miss the 'kick down' effect I had with the Solex - and if I could add some sort of heat protection to the solex, like the thick plastic gasket on the weber, then perhaps it'd be possible to avoid the warping - just my thoughts though.

But for now I'm just happy to be driving the car again, albeit with what feels like a fudge cake under my right foot! #gettingthere

[Peter V.]

I have been running the weber and ofcourse it goes very nice but i also changed it back to the solex again. My old one refurbished and it runs very smooth and reliable.

[D-M93E21]

I had this similar problem and I was a bit two heavy on the peddle and stretched the spring so it was keeping the throttle open I hat to bog the spring to get me home and the paddle went really heavy like your saying so order stronger spring and it was fine peddle went back to normal and wasn't sticking

[davidvincent]

I had this similar problem and I was a bit two heavy on the peddle and stretched the spring so it was keeping the throttle open I hat to bog the spring to get me home and the paddle went really heavy like your saying so order stronger spring and it was fine peddle went back to normal and wasn't sticking

Hi there - thanks for your feedback, could you just confirm which spring you're referring to? My spring at the pedal seems fine, the issue for me is that it's very difficult to press the pedal/accelerate, that is what is heavy....

[Grewham]

Webers are for men )

[davidvincent]

Webers are for men )

Gentlemen?

[Jeroen]

lol

did u try what happens if you disconnect the cable? Can help to establish if the cable is the cause or the linkage on the carb...

[davidvincent]

lol

did u try what happens if you disconnect the cable? Can help to establish if the cable is the cause or the linkage on the carb...

Yes I disconnected the throttle cable at the first connection in the engine bay, to test the pedal, and as soon as I took it off it was very easy to operate the pedal.

The Weber has a very stiff motion, even if you rev the engine manually (by hand, in the engine bay) it's difficult. I think I need to look at this again and see if something is too tight or if something is not correct, I think the angle of where the linkage attaches to the original brackets might be too harsh - it's very hard to explain, sorry!

The main issue is that it's difficult to pull away smoothly because of the 'all or nothing' accelerator - other than that it's just not right, and well, there's no point coming this far and not sorting it!

It doesn't help that the biting point on my clutch is extremely low, so the combination of the two is making for a fairly irritating ride. The clutch isn't slipping at all though, and I've done the master and slave cylinders, so I guess I'm just gonna have to live with it... unless anyone has any advice on the low clutch?

Cheers
David

[Jeroen]

OK clear. Perhaps a return spring that is wound up too much?

[E21noob]

From what I can understand I had a similar problem when I installed my DVAG 32/36.

I first put a universal linkage kit on, but it was like you descibe abrubt and sudden. http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/p ... ctionID=49

I then installed a larger wheel which made it much smoother and gave a little longer travel. http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/p ... ctionID=49

Also had to adjust the stop under the pedal.