2.8 m52 conversion

[LeeLee]

I know this conversion has been/is being done I really like the idea of this conversion and wonder if there's anymore info on this conversion,
what's needed to actually make it all fit and what parts can be used? m20 subframe and gearbox?what's the purpose of using the m20 box?
Would using m20 box and prop?pull the engine closer to the bulk head? What needs to be done to the rear end? Diff and drive shafts? Any build threads specific to the conversion? Is it anymore problematic in a 316?

[Jeroen]

I guess it's time for a proper how-to! Who is throwing the first stone?

[nas80]

You use the m20 mounts and gearbox so that you can make it clear the brake servo.

The sump sits close to the ground so will need modifications otherwise its a bit of a suicide sump if you lower your car.

the other thing is that you need to either go obd1 or send the ecu to someone who can remove the abs rev cut safety feature.

Rad needs to fit inside the aparture for added clearence and stuff.

Ive done this swap many times now, its not so bad, its a lot easier and cheaper of you start off with an m20 car.

[LeeLee]

Cheers guys I plan to do this conversion after I have done some finishing on the body work this year.
If i do the job I will have to do a how to on here,I've seen a few places when researching can make it work with the standard ecu so might go that route.what about fuel? 323i set up work? Diff and drive shafts of 323i need upgrading? I would have to change the rear to a disc set up.

[nas80]

It goes without saying suspension and brakes need upgrading.

323 system copes, but id change the wires and upgrade the pump

The thing to do between now and then is research a lot, along with specifics and general stuff like this. fuel systems, brake systems, suspension, wiring diagrams, cooling systems etc...

The standard rear end copes on a road car, 323 shafts are the same as 316 ones.

[LeeLee]

Suspension is upgraded already so that's one job
What brakes should I use do I have to go down a custom route 323 brakes not strong enough?
Yeah that's the plan does it matter if I get a auto 328i as im not going to be using the box anyways and theres a few low milers

[nas80]

autos need a load more wire chopping out of the engine loom but its not too bad, you have to disable the automatic car setting in the ecu too.

you'll have the power to weight ratio of an e36 m3, trust me 323i brakes wont do it. AS far as which brakes to go for there's a number of options but they all involve a bit of fabrication work..

The 323i brakes are exactly the same as the 316 only vented at the front, i couldnt tell if there was any difference when i changed the rears from drums to disks. I did notice a massive difference running wilwoods though.

But i dont think they were powerful enough, so now i am going to be running 300mm two piece floating disks with massive AP four pot calipers on my track car, also will be upgrading the rear brakes to two piece.

Wiring is pretty simple you dont really need to do much to get the engine running, besides running your sensors and starter signal, power and grounds, the engine loom is pretty self contained and takes care of the rest.

So to recap

Engine -

You need an m52b28 minimum, the fact the block is alloy so vastly improves how the car will handle if you used something like an m50, the below applies to using an s5x block and hopefully the weight wont be too much as the front wheels will be in the air anyway

Get an e34 m50 sump - big scene tax on these now so by the time you have finished you will have blown about £400 quid on just this bit.

Brakes

If you are keeping the standard brake servo system - you can use m20 mounts and an m20 box
sump will be a couple of inch off the ground - you will need to mark it, cut it and - reweld it with wings on the side to keep the capacity up, and also a baffle put in.

Cooling

Rad - electric cooling fan and get one that fits it into the aparture to ease clearence if you ever need to change a belt you wont have to take the rad out - i had a custom one made for this reason.

Wiring stuff

Easiest bit of the conversion really,

connecting the engine to the car wiring is simple - you dont need to keep the x25 plug, you can cut that off and solder the original e21 plug - do take out as many wires from the original engine loom as best as you can - there is a carrier bag of redundant wire in there

ECU - needs Abs rev cut eliminating, ews, and if car is from an auto needs to be switched to manual. or convert the engine to run on obd1 and get it mapped.

Drivetrain brakes n stuff

Invest time money and effort in a complete brake upgrade, i cannot stress how important that is really, stock brakes are ok for a standard car, but you wont be going slowly with the acceleration that your car will give you - it will easily go off the clock.

Clutch - use the m20 clutch and the flywheel and the center spigot bearing for an m20 engine, if the flywheel is from an e30 then you will need to get the rear of it machined to clear the bottom of the sump - you wont need to change the prop, the m20 stays in the same place but its a good idea to replace the center hanger bearing and the guibo when you do this swap as they will wear out quicker from extra power.


Rear end

Now theres been at least a hundred threads about this,. i have ran a stock rear end with a quaife diff, then an e12 m535i converted rear beam with stock shafts, this time for my track car im going to be using e30 diff center chopped into the middle of an e21 rear beam and custom shafts.


I hope this clears up some stuff,

[nas80]

you know when i list all the crap you need to do to get this engine in,.,

its actually probably easier or just the same work just sticking an sr20det, k20 from an s2000, perhaps even something like a saab 2.3 turbo with a vauxhaul rwd box.

I have no idea why people are so rigid when it comes to bmws and only using bmw engines in them.

[polov8]

I found an S2000 in the scrappie a few months back, and had some very evil thoughts! They wanted £3k for all the running gear though! Sod that!

[Jeroen]

Oh that is a fabulous engine indeed!

[LeeLee]

I understand the idea of changing up the brands but I'm being kind of boring when it comes to mine I want something that's been done so I can follow exactly what's being done so I don't get it wrong! My mate around the corner is putting a lexus v8 in a old Opel manta! That was brilliant help gave me a lot to think about and in some ways reassuring that it won't be to much for us,I'm sure il have more questions as it all sinks in and a few more google searches,brakes are very important I agree Im just unsure what the easiest cheapest to upgrade them is will have a search

[LeeLee]

Thanks for the info

[Jeroen]

Some useful info in here indeed!

[LeeLee]

Jeroen! Im going to start with Soucing rear subframe with disc set up and figure out what disc upgrade to use ! I see people use volvo or wilwood set up

[LeeLee]

Are 323 clocks or m52 mounts needed at all for fitting m52 into 316? Just someone I know had them laying around