M10 distributor/timing problems

[Reck]

So, I have an issue with my ignition.

My M10 is an E21 head mated to an E30 block. At TDC on cyl 1 (timing mark on pulley aligned with nipple on the block - this is correct?) I get the following two scenarios...

* When I fit an M10 2ltr injection dizzy at (belonging to Mr Edd), the rotor arm is aligned with the notch on the distributor after fitting. It runs fine - but as I'm running a carb, this means I have no vacuum advance/retard - plus Edd needs his dizzy back.

* When I fit a standard M10 1.8 carb dizzy, the rotor arm is in between firing points on the star wheel and the car will not start/backfires. Red arrow is the notch and green is where the rotor arm points:



I'm so confused - can anyone offer any guidance?? AT TDC 1 - Should the star wheel line up with the notch? Should the rotor arm align with both the notice and the star wheel? Cause mine isn't doing any of this, whereas mr Edd's is.

[Jeroen]

And yours is the one that belongs to the block? Since there are so many different versions of the dizzy. They all look roughly the same but they can be very different and even running in opposite direction. So first make sure you have the right P/N dizzy that belongs to the block. With the right one the rotor finger should be at the notch indeed. You can't fith it one or two teeth shifted and adjust/turn it manually?

[johne21]

Hi Reck, I have a dizzy that the star lines up and the notch for the rotor arm lines up with the notch in the dizzy body.

[johne21]

For sale if you want it.

[Reck]

I believe mine is the dizzy that belongs to the head - not the block. Head is E21, block is E30. Unsure of what this means tbh. So the dizzy needs to match the block rather than the head... ? Slightly worrying as the block is from an E30 1.8 M10 carb but I'm not sure I have any other way of identifying it.

We tried putting the gear on in different positions several times, but the rotor would never line up with a firing point at any position - it was always half way in between. Is this a case of simply unclipping the star wheel and adjusting it's position?

John - thanks for the offer but I have tried about 5 dizzys so far and only actually found one that was suitable. Until I know a bit more I'll hold off cheers!

[Jeroen]

Didn't know you had the head off as well, no it should match the head of course, sorry if that caused any confusion.

But the entire dizzy housing should be able to turn, that is how you fine tune ignition timing.

[mr edd]

your green mark is that tdc or the 22degrees btdc timeing mark. also i imagine the difference in dizzys is that mine has no vacuum advance...i have collected those clips and screws together that your dizzy is missing...it not going to beat us mate !...edd

[joe14]

If its any use to you I can drive over to you this evening and let you look over my 316 (1. for comparison?

[E21-driver]

Hi Reck,

Could you already find a solution ? I have fitted same dizzy on an older '76 2.0 block (the older dizzies don't have the star wheel). Together with changing the camshaft. Dizzy and camshaft wheel are a pair.
So I changed the engine from clockwise rotating dizzy to counterclockwise with electronic ignition.
Normally, you should get the marks together by rotating the housing afterwards. Could you solve it ? Please report.
Greets
M.