engine won´t start (but almost?)

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pihlen
E21 starter
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:06 pm
My E21(s): '81 318i, manual, swedish, silver
Location: gothenburg sweden

engine won´t start (but almost?)

Post by pihlen »

Hi,

this is about a 1981 318i (swedish) all original M10.

I changed the head gasket and have therefore disassembled the motor quite alot including wires, hoses, etc (was in TDC when disassembled).

Now that everything is put back together the engine will not start. When turning the key, the started motor turns well and there are some puffs (ignitions) and there is exhaust gases coming out in the back, so some sort of life happens, it just won´t fully start. (Also had a couple of backfires during cranking.)

The spark plugs are also changed so they are brand new.

The fuel distributor has fuel in it and so does the cold start fuel hose have, so fuel system seems fine (or am i missing something?).

Me and my friend have tried to crank and then turn the distributor and you can tell it ignites better at certain positions compared to other.

I was super careful with keeping all parts as they were positioned for TDC, including chain, cam shaft, cylinders, etc.

Since it is igniting, but not enough to properly start, I guess it´s not completely wrong but rather a matter of fine tuning something?

Any ideas on what can be the problem(s)? Any common issues when engine ignites but don´t start after having taken stuff apart?

Thanks in advance,


Always thankful for y'alls knowledge and help! (So far I guess I´ll get more help then being able to help out my self..so far) :)

Stefan from Gothenburg, Sweden.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDLw16AM6dC ... schteeffoh
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Jeroen
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 12:23 pm
My E21(s): '81 323i Baur
Location: The Netherlands
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Re: engine won´t start (but almost?)

Post by Jeroen »

Always a challenge after a rebuild! So all 4 spark plugs are wet indicating fuel is actually injected into the combustion chambers? Is the firing order of the ignition wires correct? Not turned 180 degrees either? You can set the static part for the ignition by setting the rotor finger to line up with the notch in the housing if cyl 1 is on TDC, that should be close to ok. Ignition advance vacuum line(s) hooked up correctly?
Regards/groeten, Jeroen
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