Long time listener- first time caller/ newbie trying to diagnose e21 issues

[E21gr69]

Hey guys,

Long time lurker but first time poster—

E21 is acting weird so I’ll keep it brief
1.
Car idles high at start and increases as it stays on to 1500, it has always ran a tad rich; M10 engine
-Weather has been cold (30-40f) but I don’t think that would be enough to throw the idle off obviously

2.
Clutch most times feels fine but occasionally goes limp on the way down but not up
- have pumped clutch pedal and have replaced o rings in master cylinder.

3.
Transmission is locked out of all 5 forward gears and grinds while going into reverse
-have tried putting it in gear whilst parked but stalls out and grinds.

————-
Prior to all this car ran like an absolute monster but now I can’t drive it at all. I have some ideas as to what it could be but I’m not an expert, I’m just a kid, and I don’t want to touch something without learning about what it is and about this particular car.

Thanks guys!

[Wilmo]

What M10 do you have?

Clutch might be the slave cilinder. Could the transmission have to do with that you don’t have a clutch?

[Jeroen]

Welcome here, thanks for posting!

1983 US 320i so basically a Euro 318i with a Cat. My first thought.

1. could be a vacuum leak, maladjusted or stuck K-Jet distributor, or warm up regulator needing a rebuild
2 and 3 could be related indeed, if you have a leak at the slave cylinder that's fitted to the gearboxs' bell housing, you can loose pressure and also not have enough pressure to fully operate the clutch.

[E21gr69]

Well we solved the clutch issue, master cylinder appeared to be leaking and so that was replaced and now we filled it up with DOT3 fluid, so clutch feels as it should.

Problem is now, we have a no start. Crank is healthy and strong but no start. Alternator coils were replaced in August along with the battery. Oil is soon needing to be changed. Idk if mine is US or EU since the previous owner imported it and I am originally from Spain but I did buy it from a US service member. Pierburg fuel pump was replaced and upgraded to EFI from the looks of it. Spark plugs haven't been done yet and it has a Weber 2 barrel. No cats because it was straight piped and the M10 has a custom Air intake. Car was bulletproof prior to coming to Texas.

Essentially I have to find out why there is crank but no start just to find out if I have solved the lockout please pray for me, never a dull moment

[uwbuurman]

Well, for a start you'll fuel, air and a spark, in the right combination. That is all, so start with determining if you have all 3.

[E21gr69]

Sorry to revive this thread but I've gotten back to figuring out what is going on with this thing--

So there's no crank whatsoever anymore.

Battery is fine, there's a buzz coming when the key switches on (I'm guessing the fuel pump) and when I try to turn it on, there's a click from the front of the car but nothing happens. The engine did want to fire once but it won't. I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor along with the ignition coil. The computer was also replaced to see if it was something with the computer but it wasn't.

And now, I can't figure out what these wires are
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... 8EJ0zAD-l9

All electronics work just fine (radio, A/C etc)

I'm guessing it has something to do with the ignition but really have no clue

[Jeroen]

So the starter motor may either be defective, of you may not have enough current going to it, may be caused by a corroded ground connection chassis-battery-alternator-starter motor. Perhaps you can try to push start the car?

[E21gr69]

I'm not sure if I can push start it, but I did order an overnight starter motor from a supplier on the East Coast of the United States. So I'll try to see if that solves it and come back with results.

[Jeroen]

Fingers crossed!

[E21gr69]

Lol and lots of beer!

[Reck]

Try hitting the current starter with a hammer. Solenoid could be stuck. Won't be a permanent fix obviously.