Mark's 316 M52/2.8 + Cat cams & Jenvey ITB's

--ALPINA-- · Post by **--ALPINA--** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:13 pm

RetroBeemer wrote: I think that's the way I'm going to go. Hopefully it won't be to loud either still having 2 silencer boxes. It'll give me more clearance to as its that centre box thats hitting speed humps.

Go for it, it should sound sweet with only 2 back boxes!!!

J

dannyboy · Post by **dannyboy** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:22 am

thats what i did ..Lots more clearance...yee haaa... sounds lovely too.
P.s have just seen pics of your car..awsome.. i think you will like mine.. same colour same ride drop ect.. like twins only i have rear foha spoiler. once its back together would be nice to meet up at the ace and get some photos.
Daniel

MadMax · Post by **MadMax** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:39 am

Whoa there! Call me an old man but 3 inches is way too much!

I had a 2.25inch straight through on my 1985 Supra, with rear box only (no centre box). That was on a 2.8 litre straight six. 102-3dB and just the right amount of gurgle and pop at lift-off. So three inches on a 2.5 seems a bit big to me, surely that can't be good for performance?

I'm all for leaving out the centre box, but that's just too wide!

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:51 pm

Cows die for e21

Fat arse sighs with relief

m3gaz · Post by **m3gaz** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:16 pm

They're not E21 seats,are they?

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:26 pm

They are now.

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:05 pm

I re-fitted the standard air box and panel filter today and much prefer the way the car drives as opposed to the cone filter.
I also routed the new HT leads a little better although I could do with some clips. Being slightly thicker than the standard leads they don't like the regular clips.
I checked the oil and it remains at the same level and is still clean and clear.

The only thing I am not 100% happy with is the way the cold start valve etc, just push-fit. They seem to be at a slightly odd angle and I'm concerned they might not be totally air tight. Has anyone else experienced this please guys?

I also did the scuff marks on the seats with some leather dye. After that I used saddle soap to clean them and it was amazing just how much crap came off the leather. They are far better now and the smell of leather is really nice. I'm looking forward to hopefully getting the rear from Jim and some fitting instructions from Jason. I imagine I'll be looking to dye the carpet black then too.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to racking up a few miles tomorrow with a few other nice BMW's. I'll take pics and post them up here afterwards.

--ALPINA-- · Post by **--ALPINA--** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:38 pm

mark, with your ICV, does it idle above 1000 rpms in the morning for a few minutes then below 1000rpms?

J

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:55 pm

If I'm honest I can't really remember. I'll check in the morning.

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:09 am

I noted what happens from cold Jimmy and the idle just seems to stay the same rather than being a little higher and then dropping back.
The other thing is that it takes a fair few cranks to actually fire if I just hold the key over constantly. However, if I just crank it for a couple of turns, stop then start again, it fires instantly. When warmed through it fires instantly all the time and idles at a smooth 850rpm.

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:46 pm

Dropping my car off tomorrow morning to have the exhaust system done at last!

Only downside is being demoted to a Pug 106 while it's away. It's not such a bad little car it's just the pedals are tiny and so close together sometimes I can brake and clutch with one foot!

--ALPINA-- · Post by **--ALPINA--** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 2:37 pm

RetroBeemer wrote:I noted what happens from cold Jimmy and the idle just seems to stay the same rather than being a little higher and then dropping back.
The other thing is that it takes a fair few cranks to actually fire if I just hold the key over constantly. However, if I just crank it for a couple of turns, stop then start again, it fires instantly. When warmed through it fires instantly all the time and idles at a smooth 850rpm.

Hi mark, on my car also the cold start dont kick in, but you need the ICV no matter as it settles the idle, as i have a hot cam its abit lumpy anyway, i havent experiance my car with a smooth running engine ever for what ive done to it

anyway another thing, with the cranking of the engine before it starts, yess also its the same to me, cos when you turn the ignition on to the first turn the fuel pump wont switch on!!! only when you start cranking it the fuel pump starts to run.. now im looking into that so when you turn the key on to the on position ACC the fuel starts to run, and when its primed theres a snamll shut of switch in the fuel pump which turns the pump off so it wont keep on running, this way it reliefs the pressure in the fuel pipes to activate the fuel pump to run once the car starts.. does that makes sence? ill do mine when i get the chance and if you want yours done the same ill do it, as i have a remote starter its beneficial for me to do this as the first time i press the controller that car will start frist time!!!

J

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 2:55 pm

OK mate cool.

I'm thinking of getting a new cam after Christmas - or maybe for Christmas if I can persuade Claire?

- but as Shrick are so expensive I am think maybe Cat Cams? I don't want anything to lumpy but maybe a fast road / high torque pattern?

Anyone any suggestions on Cams and what to have done to the head?

LadyDriver · Post by **LadyDriver** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:29 pm

RetroBeemer wrote:
Only downside is being demoted to a Pug 106 while it's away!

You should count yourself lucky mate.....it's that or the bus

dannyboy · Post by **dannyboy** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:27 pm

Pug 106... Lift off oversteer!!!!!!!!!!!!