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I have been having problems with my E21 320 1982. I just got it back from the mechanic who changed the six spark plugs and adjusted the automatic choke. However the car still stops, I've noticed it stops when the engine is still cold, however when it does stop, it refuses to start again, and I try pumping the accelerator and starting and it refuses to start, then after trying for a million times it usually starts. I've noticed then when I press the accelerator the car shakes I can feel that something is wrong somewhere, like the car is shivering, could it be the fuel pump? Fuel filter? Petrol seems to be arriving into the engine fine, I am compelled as to what the problem could be. It also doesn't start right away in the mornings as I usually have to pump the accelerator to get it started. Can any one please help me out?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Solex carburettor is probably the problem, mine has some of the same tendancies!

Im either going to get a weber carb or wait and change out engine for a 325i

Solex are ruuuuuuubish!!! Get it off and buy a weber, just like the one i have for sale

What do you mean? First of all I don't want to change anything, to try keep it all original, if I need to change the carburetor I will get one exactly identical buy in good condition. So you are implying it's the carburetor? How do I know if it is a 'solex' will it be written somewhere ?

Solex carbs are an inherently poor design. Where the spindle mounts, for the butterfly, the carb body wears out and so you end up with problems such as those you describe. They also have airways that corrode. The Weber & Dellorto carbs have the spindle sat in a bearing which is why they don't fail in the same way. Unless you can find a new Solex, in an effort to retain originality, you'll just end up with the same problems again. The auto chokes are also notorious for causing problems. The Weber conversion isn't something that would detract from your cars value. In fact, quite the opposite. Your car will run far better, be better on fuel in normal driving and produce more power when you give it the beans.

Solex 4A1
I had a new head on mine, renewed the manifold seals and had a tune up. The car ran like shite ever since then. Unless you do a full re-build on one of these, their a lost cause

I have the same carb and the same engine. I just rebuilt mine, bought the rebuild kit from W&N. The guys are right, weber is the way to go, however, I f you want the original carb the rebuild kit was £50.00 or there abouts. there is a BMW service manual down load on here that is Fantastic! My carb is now running fine. If your car is giving you greif at cold start but not on hot start, chances are the cold start aux air slide is stuck. very common. I had to source a spare one for mine as the original was completely seised. In the picture above, the air slide is to the left of the yellow adapter and has two water pipes and two screws holding it in. with the engine cold, take that off and see if there is an air gap between the brass slide and the housing. if not then this is a good place to start

also , the 24mil bolt next to the air slide is the fuel inlet. there is a screen on the end of it. see if that is full of crap.

i threw my old solex down the garden when i took it off to fit e30 injection. (highly satisfying it was too!)

these carbs are known for problems..... as mark said, a well fitted weber replacement will only add to the cars reliability, drivability, enonomy etc. if anything it'll make the car increase in value. also once the big pan air cleaner is on top of it it'll look exactly the same.

reguarding the shaking? this could be ignition related, pull the plugs out, see if ones a little blacker and more sooty than the others? check the usual dizzy cap, rotor and plug leads stuff.....

lol murran is right too. there are several reasons for the condition you are describing. (aren't ya glad you asked) hehe As with any problem, start with the basics and make sure that things like spark plugs and leads are all doing there job. of course Im assuming the mech you had looking at it already did that

Hi guys, thanks for all the answers I really appreciate all your help!!!! Regarding the spark plugs the mechanic changed them all. Please keep in mind every one, that I am not exactly a very good person with technicalities, however the photograph of the carburetor is exactly like mine, that much I realized . I would like to update the status of my car now, as I just returned home and it stopped right outside my drive, I tried starting a hundred times but no way in hell it will start !! Can any one please link me to a full detailed step by step explanation of how to rebuild the carburetor? Also, I think there is indeed something wrong with the ignition system something seems to be going on in there. If I removed the distributor cap and spray some WD-40 and close it, should it make a difference? And do I have to remove all those wires stuck to the distributor? Because I won't know how to put them back.

hmmm steady on paduan..(failed star wars refference) dont spray stuff in the distibutor and try to start it....good way to start a fire. Where are you? or maybe a phone call would be best. My number is 07854923454 send me a text and Ill call ya back. Might be better to talk you through what you need to do.

Where are you based? Might be one of us nearby enough to have a look?

e21-Mark wrote:Where are you based? Might be one of us nearby enough to have a look?

This is the best option no doubts

the only thing about spraying ignition componets with wd40 is if their damp/wet etc.