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is there anyway of getting more warm air in the car as sometimes i cant see out my windscreen in the cold mornings plus the car dont get that warm inside

You'll probably need to install a water temp gauge so that you can see just how hot the coolant is actually getting? The needle on the standard e21 gauge varies it's position with just a relatively small temp' change so doesn't give an accurate enough reading to start restricting the cooling effect of the rads we're running. You could fit a hotter temp' switch to be going on with though.

as shtoopid as it seems there is this...instant warmth from the salmon n trout outlet!....on egay.

My mrs had one of those. It was like an asthmatic mouse breathing on the screen with the added risk of it catching fire.

IMHO there's nothing wrong with the heating and ventilation capacity of the E21, but make sure to have it set up correctly.

See below diagram, only the vents with the dark arrows blow heated air. Close the others as well as the slider on the right and you'll be able to turn your car into a sauna. The diagram is taken from the instruction manual, perhaps you might want to do some further reading.

Possible issues: if you're hardly getting any heat inside you better check if the cooling system is bled properly and that the interior heating valve opens up. Coolant temp does reach about the halfway mark on the gauge?

It's down to the engine / alloy rad conversion Jeroen. My car is the same. I think we need to run our engines a little hotter hence the need for a temp' gauge to see exactly what temp' the coolant is currently reaching.

In that case you might need a different thermostat indeed, time for some temp measurements!

The problem is that the rad is over spec'd so in extreme winter it will only go warm but not v.hot. the fan hardly ever comes on due to the awesome ability of the rad.

What I do is stick a rubber matt in behind the grill covering 50 % of the rad, only when its less then 10 degrees as anything over that its fine.

That sounds more like a cooling system/thermostat setup that is not functioning properly to me.

There core of the rad is a genuine forest spec world rally car item.

Its supposed to not get hot easily. I over spec the rad to ensure there's no problem with cooling and if you increase power as much as you like. Wont need to ever upgrade

I like the added security of knowing I won't cook my engine. Alloy M52's are only any use as paperweights once they've overheated.

Same applies more or less to the M20, but still we're overlooking the function of the thermostat which should always allow the engine and coolant to reach normal operating temperature no matter how many rads you add. The only result may be the there is less flow in the cooling system and that might be a cause for less heat being dissapated to the interior.

Thinking about what you posted Jeroen. I had another look at my coolant flow diagram.

The m5x has a totally different system of pipes and one of them I think is bypassing the thermostat from after the heater core. I didn't think i had a problem on my own car as I never drove it in winter until this year!

I had it down to the rad being too awesome. But ill test the theory out on my own car as that struggles to make temp in certain conditions ( when its really cold)! I've checked with mark too and we all have the samr issue.

Very confident I can sort it easily.

Sounds like a possible thermostat bypass indeed. Curious what the result will be!

Anyone??