CSV testing

[trash-berd]

I've been having trouble starting on cold starts (can take up to ~20 seconds of pure cranking), the first thing I'm checking is my CSV, I have a new one on hand, but I don't just want to swap them and see if it's better, I wanna test the old one first and make sure I'm not wasting money
My Haynes manual says after removing the CSV, to ground terminal "W" of the heat time switch (that is clearly shown)
To disconnect my starter solenoid lead @ terminal 50
And inside the fusebox, to "Lift changover relay 1 until terminal 30 (terminal 87 on NA models) is visible, connect a test lead between this terminal and the battery positive terminal" and this should make the CSV squirt fuel.

Now, my question is, what is the changover relay 1, and what are terminals 50 and 87?

[trash-berd]

I just disconnected the cold start valve and tried to start the car without disconnecting anything else, just to see if it even worked. It squirted fuel for about 4 or 5 seconds and stopped, I was under the impression it'd be for around 15 seconds or soemthing along those lines? Should replace it or check something else? I'd like to get my money back on that new CSV if I can, damn expensive

EDIT: Would this make sense in conjunction with my bad cold starts? When the car is bone-ass cold, it cranks for about 4 or 5 seconds, tries to turn over, keeps cranking a bit longer, and then finally turns over. I'm uploading a video of it now

[Jeroen]

Sounds like the cold start valve is ok then. The CSV also doesn't really perform miracles, just that extra bit of fuel just for startup, if the CSV fails then it just takes a few secs longer and starts just the same.

Did this problem start all of a sudden or after work done? Think I'd do a check for vacuum leaks especially the intake boot and hoses and try a different WUR first. I'd get a used example to test instead of spending a lot of $.

[trash-berd]

It's started after it sat for a whole day while I was in Montana, before that it always fired right up, ever since that one day it's had all sorts of (what I assume) fueling issues. I've been replacing the vacuum lines (last one is on order from germany) and it's been getting better, but it's definitely still not where it used to/should be.

I know the rubber part of the plenum that attaches to the throttle body is cracked where the vacuum T fitting goes, is there any easy way to remove it while the intake manifold is on? Seems like a real bitch to get to.