replacing fuel lines

cdavie2002 · Post by **cdavie2002** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:26 pm

Has anyone done this before?

Iv got an advisory on the mot that the fuel lines are corroded.

Do you just go to dealership?
Buy and bend pipe yourself?
Get flexible braided hose?

nas80 · Post by **nas80** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:00 pm

you can get rubber or use 8mm copper pipe (i think).

Is there a fuel return line on a 316 tank?

cdavie2002 · Post by **cdavie2002** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:07 pm

ahh i dunno! Still trying to figure out whats on mine.

Lars-Nord · Post by **Lars-Nord** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:31 am

cdavie2002 wrote:ahh i dunno! Still trying to figure out whats on mine.

I guess you just got one line. No problem to make this out of bending copper.

drjim · Post by **drjim** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:32 am

316 should just have a single line.

roll of 8mm copper pipe from Wickes/B&Q etc or ebay is all you need. Probably have to take the tanks off to get it fitted properly.

I did the ones on the slug before fitting the tanks.

Clips will be rotten, so much soaking in wd40 type stuff then careful removal, buy new ones or if you are building a race car with no interior use nylon P-clips and pop rivets.

it's a job best done on a ramp, so I think I'd just get a little man at a garage to do it.

Jim

Madhatter · Post by **Madhatter** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:22 am

by the time you buy the tools for bending and flaring the ends, then the amount of pipe you go through learning how to use things, the hours it will take you in the end, can pay a professional to do it for similar price and be done within an hour.

tommi_e21 · Post by **tommi_e21** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:15 am

why would you need to flare the end of a fuel line????? its not like brake lines and just use sockets to bend decent raduis.

if you cant be arsed to take tank out just use a longer bit of rubber hose and poke it down.

and there is only 1 line on a carb car, only injection uses a return line

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:32 am

Ideally, you should put a slight flare on the end of a fuel line although I never have. Just make sure the rubber section covers the metal pipe by at least a couple of inches and use new jubilee clips. If it were a high pressure fuel system you'd need more but the mechanical fuel pump on a 316 should be fine.

nas80 · Post by **nas80** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:20 pm

if you want to flare the pipe a big phillips screwdriver on the of the pipe couple of turns job done. ghetto mechanics ftw!

tommi_e21 · Post by **tommi_e21** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:42 pm

he means a little rased section, easy to flare out its just flaring back in to get the little rise in the circumfrance for the pipe to grip onto

Jason_323i · Post by **Jason_323i** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:30 pm

Domestic copper is not the best for fuel line as vibrations make it work harden & go brittle

Just buy the line from BMW, removing the clips like Drjim says is a pain, just drill them out and use P Clips to hold new fuel line. Also you need to drop the tank to fit the lines

Jason

Madhatter · Post by **Madhatter** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:24 pm

austin25uk wrote:why would you need to flare the end of a fuel line????? its not like brake lines and just use sockets to bend decent raduis.

if you cant be arsed to take tank out just use a longer bit of rubber hose and poke it down.

and there is only 1 line on a carb car, only injection uses a return line

what stops hoses sliding down fuel line when simply held on by a hose clamp?

e21-Mark · Post by **e21-Mark** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:13 pm

Friction I guess? I think that's why it's only suggested for low pressure fuel systems with mechanical fuel pumps?

Madhatter · Post by **Madhatter** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:03 am

just vibrations are enough for them to slide off. Even carbed fittings and connections have flared ends.

tommi_e21 · Post by **tommi_e21** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:21 am

use 2 jubilee clips then, job done